DEAR READER
enim is a fabric that has shaped my entire life. In my youth, wearing denim was a way to protest the establishment. The Rolling Stones even featured it on the cover of their ‘Sticky Fingers’ LP. Back when I launched Sportswear International in the US and met Andy Warhol, one night I saw him don a tuxedo with cut-off trousers and a pair of Levi’s 501s underneath: a way to stick to the dress code and rebel against the system.
Before moving to the States, I was the second-largest jeans retailer in Germany. Those manning the doors at my 28 stores could only let new customers in once others had left. That’s how big the crowds were back in the late 70s.
Then the premium jeans from LA hit the scene in 2003/2004. Now it wasn’t just about the design: fit mattered too. A lot of money was invested in fit models, the most famous being Paige Geller, who later launched her own brand, Paige. We were offered the bestfitting jeans ever: they were soft, perfectly washed, stretchy, and simply sexy – the polar opposite of those unwashed Levi’s 501s. The hottest brand around at that time was 7 For All Mankind. Jeans suddenly became socially acceptable and, with prices over 200 USD, a genuine luxury item. It was nothing like my time in America during the 80s. Back then, jeans were just work pants and cost around 30 USD. Brands such as Sergio Valente and Jordache took off with the first designer jeans, which sold with a much higher price tag. But there is one jeans pioneer from that time for whom I have the utmost respect. A man who has remained a leader to this day: Paul Marciano, founder of GUESS. Fatto bene, caro!
I also noticed that there were more similarities between fashion retailers operating various stores in the world’s biggest cities, such as Berlin, LA or Tokyo, than between sprawling metropolises and small towns within the countries themselves. Jeans became a luxury good and I founded WeAr Global Magazine, the first international B2B and art-inspired magazine for fashion professionals published in a coffee-table book format and in eight languages. From Ron Herman to Breuninger, Isetan to Kim Kardashian, one magazine was suddenly reaching key figures and influencers around the globe.
I have seen jeans peak three times in my life. Each time jeans hit the big time – like when Volkswagen jumped on the bandwagon, building a “jeans” version of its Beetle car – business seemed to level off. Trendsetters just didn’t want to be seen as mainstream. Even so, things rarely went quiet for long, and jeans soon returned, each time bigger and stronger than before.
Right now, jeans are once again experiencing a moment of calm, but I am seeing the first signs – from LA and Tokyo, of course – that jeans might soon be back with a bang. This time the focus is not on new designs and cuts – how can you improve perfection? – but on new materials that enable greater sustainability, an area that has seen huge progress in recent years. WeAr was one of the first to address the topic 16 years ago, thanks to our French correspondent Monika Fossati, who went on to become a sustainability advisor to LVMH.
Today we plan to make history again with the second part of our legendary ‘Denim Legends’ book, which appeared in 2007 and, I’m proud to say, made its way onto the bookshelves of Karl Lagerfeld and several famous rock stars. We would love to reignite your enthusiasm for denim, so we decided this time, instead of publishing an 890 EUR book, we would simply offer part two as a supplement to our latest issue. That way we can make sure it reaches as many key industry figures – i.e. you! – as possible and hopefully inspire you to rediscover denim as one of the hottest fashion items on the planet.
With the help of our editorial board, comprising Jason Denham, Maurizio Donadi, Palle Stenberg, François Girbaud, Panos Sofianos, Sven Oberstein, Andrew Olah, Jeff Rudes, Enrique Silla, Erik Torstensson & Jens Grede and Renzo Rosso, our editorial team has put together highlights from the last 15 years and compiled a round table article featuring the latest denim news and innovations.
I would like to take this opportunity to express my deepest gratitude to all those on our editorial board, the entire editorial team, who are always busy tracking down the latest trends around the globe, and, above all, to you, our readers. A warm thanks also goes to our advertisers and sponsors without whom our magazine would not be possible. All the best, stay well and keep on rocking! Klaus Vogel
ACNE (2021) 006 DENIM LEGENDS II