WeAr (Russian)

MARCO BONZANNI

OWNE R , INDIGO DI S T RIC T FOR KUR ABO

- Kurabo

If we talk about fabric performanc­e, I would say the dual fix ( T400) for stretch fabrics was the innovation that made it possible for designers to change fits to all denim garment styles for men and women. In fact, this revolution­ary developmen­t has definitive­ly spun off the ratio change between rigid vs. stretch, where stretch garments now account for more than 80% of jeans produced globally. At that time, was one of the first mills to develop this special yarn technology (called S CUBE). Other important and revolution­ary developmen­ts are now linked to sustainabi­lity and all its conjugatio­ns. Kurabo was visionary, having in place an upcycle recycling system since 1990, which, in 2018, implemente­d our Looplus program. With Looplus yarn, we mix 70% virgin cotton with 30% recarded cotton, which comes from postcuttin­g and postconsum­er fabrics. The idea is to commute all our yarn in the next five years.

True sustainabi­lity will be the goal in 2021, although in recent years, this word has been misused to the extent of confusing the final consumer. At the moment, there are committed people who are working on the basic requiremen­ts needed to apply the word “sustainabl­e” to a garment. I believe that sustainabi­lity is not only a matter of protecting the Earth from the abuse of water resources and reducing chemicals, but should also cover other aspects, such as work conditions, minimum salaries and the ethical behavior of brands. In terms of fabrics, the customers we deal with looked for more authentic and comfort fabrics in our collection, whereby we can still have a lead in terms of heritage in yarn R&D.

I think that this period we are living through will offer both existing and new brands the chance to re-focus on product and quality rather than fight on commodity jeans, which is where I see the highest confusion on the market. If this happens and a hot selling stream is created, it would be welcome, especially by the few mills left that are committed to creating high-value fabrics.

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