ENGLISH SUMMARY
Altaroma is the driving force of emerging Italian Fashion; a meeting point of the exploration of new trends with a national and international showcase for the newest designs. Scouting for original talent as well as the latest brands, Altaroma promotes the excellences of ‘Made in Italy’ and the craftsmanship of designers. ‘Fashion Hub,’ ‘Who Is On Next?’ and ‘Showcase’ are marks of Altaroma, aimed to the valorization of emerging talents, small sartorial realities and independent designers, who contribute to the tutelage and development of the Italian Fashion System.
Twice a year, Altaroma organizes the Roma Fashion Week, whose next edition will take place from January 23 to 26, 2020.
The fundamental point of the event will be Showcase Roma, made with the support of the Italian Ministry of Economic Development and with the Italian Trade Agency. 56 designers will showcase (with 14 rotations each day) their Fall-Winter 2020/2021 collections — between clothing and accessories — showing a wide range of products to the public. This year, Startups, characterized by innovative materials and productions, will be included among the exhibitors. Altaroma follows up its scouting activity, assisting brands to position themselves in the marketplace through B2B meetings with buyers and press members.
On October 16, for the first time in Baku, a fashion show of Anastasi-AZadorina brand couture, was held in Dinamo Hotel, Baku. In connection with this event, the founder of the fashion house, Anastasia Zadorina visited Baku in order to personally demonstrate her capsule collection, that she created specifically for this show. She shared her vision of fashion, as well as the main milestones in her design career, in this exclusive interview.
The M.O.S.T.: You graduated
MGIMO (Moscow State Institute of International Relations) and suddenly became a fashion designer. At what point did you realize this was your vocation in life?
Anastasia: I have been interested in fashion since childhood — I liked to draw, sew clothes for dolls and pick out outfits for myself and my friends. I always wanted to do something creative, but serious thoughts about becoming a designer appeared only in my student years — then, simultaneously with studying at the undergraduate and graduate programs at MGIMO, I went to study at the faculty of Fashion Theory of Alexander Vasiliev, and began to engage in academic drawing. In addition, I attended various courses in Russia and Europe. I also learned a lot on my own — at workshops, cutting and sewing or
reading specialized literature. I really wanted to thoroughly understand all the issues, so I was interested in absolutely everything — from the process of creating patterns to the device of sewing machines and steam generators.
The M.O.S.T.: How do you measure your success? How satisfied are you with your work? Does income bring satisfaction to the creative person?
Anastasia: By nature, I am a perfectionist. When I begin the creation process, I am not content until I am completely satisfied with my work. For me, as a innovative person, income is not my first priority. The finest reward for me is to see the final result, with the highest quality.
The M.O.S.T.: How and why did you start your sports line? There can be less freedom in the design of sportswear rather than in couture. Has this been a challenge for you?
Anastasia: I always wanted to create a Russian sports brand that would produce fashionable, comfortable and high-quality clothing at affordable prices. In 2012, at the time of the creation of my ZASPORT brand, this was not the case in Russia, there was a gap in the market. We began to sew uniforms for sports clubs, teams, federations and corporations, and after ZASPORT became the official outfitter of the Russian Olympic team in 2017, we began to develop the sport and casual direction. In fact, I wouldn’t necessarily agree there is less freedom in the design of sportswear. Yes, there are certain requirements that must be observed, however we always strive to ensure our sportswear is not only comfortable, but also meets the latest fashion trends. Moreover, the athleisure trend for several years has been at the peak of popularity, and sportswear has become an integral part of everyday wardrobe. So, my work in this direction is not a challenge for me, but instead, an opportunity to explore my creativity in different ways.
A family business of Rasit Bagzibagli (pages 28-31)
The famous Turkish fashion designer, Rasit Bagzibagli opened his longawaited boutique in Baku. Three stores in fact — with women’s dresses, men’s suits and fabrics. Rasit’s family has been engaged in the fashion industry for three generations.
The M.O.S.T.: What brought you into the world of fashion?
Rasit: I became involved in the fashion industry at a very young age; more than sixty years — since my grandfather founded the business in 1957 — my family has been continuously working with fabrics, silhouettes, tailoring and of course, style . I think the love of fashion, texture and design was transferred to me genetically — I sewed my first shorts, for example, at the age of five.
The M.O.S.T.: What stages of development did you explore before arriving to couture?
Rasit: All my life I had a desire to engage in women’s fashion. By the age of 21, when I opened my brand, I had no plan or strategy — only youthful determination and the desire to reach my goals at any cost. I started with long weekend dresses called gowns, and a little later I included cocktail dresses into my collection. Recently I’ve been developing a casual line. I really believe you need to constantly work on a brand, that works for you. The further the brand goes, the more necessary it is to spend your energy and your finances. My brand today is in high demand; like my customers — they expect more and more with every season.
I always listen to the suggestions of people who, having entered my boutique, leave empty-handed. For example, manually embroidered fabrics with an uncomplicated silhouette are the hallmark of my brand, but in the latest collections you will see more simple fabrics, with more complex cuts. Baku for me is another ‘request’ of the brand. In Turkey, we became overcrowded, therefore we decided to expand into a market where the needs, tastes and cultural heritage are similar to our beliefs.
The M.O.S.T.: How close are Azerbaijan and Turkey in terms of style? Is the Baku fashionista different from Istanbul?
Rasit: We still do not quite understand the Baku women in terms of fashion (laughs!) In fact, we are still conducting a little internal market research. It seems to me that the Turkish and Azerbaijani tastes are quite the same. However, people here in Baku are more knowledgeable about fashion, more willing to take risks, wearing something more bold than expected. It’s not only about the deep neckline, but also the absolutely incredible combinations of colors, textures and silhouettes. This, probably, gave rise to a stereotype in Turkey that Azerbaijanis dress very pompously. I fundamentally disagree with this — on the streets of Baku you will meet an elegant but simply dressed girl in basic dress, but unusually combined with feathers and sparkles.
.Antonini: 100 years of excellence (pages 46-48)
Antonini, a jewelry brand with a long history, celebrates its centenary this year. In connection with this event, Sergio Antonini, the heir to the House, is releasing the Anniversary Collection. At the Elluxus boutique, where the collection was presented, we talked with Sergio about his contribution to the heritage of Antonini, art, esotericism and style.
ABOUT ANTONINI HISTORY
The Antonini brand was born in 1919. Precious stones — unique rubies, emeralds and diamonds, were the main focus of my father and grandfather.
Each product was unique, made to order, for a specific client. A little later, the pearl line also was launched, but the concept of uniqueness did not exhaust itself. I am very proud of our collections ‘Mirror’ and ‘Mosaic.’ The first was inspired by the work of Anish Kapoor, and in the second you will not find a single identical product — it is a revolution of precious stones and colors. These two collections are significant for us. This is something that will never go out of style.
ABOUT HIS CONTRIBUTION TO THE BRAND
In 1988, we opened — on my initiative — a small production in Milan. We are proud that Antonini is a completely ‘Made in Italy’ brand — everything from the first draft to the polishing, takes place in Milan. Then Antonini began to produce smaller collections, continuing however, to produce unique products. I think Antonini before Sergio, was a small workshop with a big name. The history of Antonini House is one hundred years old, yes, but the brand’s chronology, it seems to me, begins in 1988.
ABOUT STYLE
I have noticed a very specific tendency among Azerbaijani women –they manage to combine several elements with each other, bright accents, bright make-up — however it looks harmonious at the same time. Italians never risk it this way. Personally, I am a fan of the basic look with one accent. In my opinion, this kind of look most clearly distinguishes the femininity and natural beauty of each girl. The totalblack look — a classic black turtleneck and leather trousers –with large earrings or a baroque ring, always looks richer than even the most expensive dress complete with embroidery and sequins! Less is more, as they say.
An art of correlation (pages 50-52)
Three of the eighteen prizes at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve), were given to Audemars Piguet. In addition to the main prize -Golden Arrow, Audemars Piguet was recognized as the best in the categories, Legendary watches and Men’s Watches with Complications. Who else has taken a new height in watchmaking, and why Audemars Piguet were the triumphs of the award; you can find in the review of The M.O.S.T magazine.
The grand prize, the Golden Arrow (Auguille d’Or), of the Geneva Watch Grand Prix — the finals of which took place in November — in the Swiss capital, was awarded to Audemars Piguet, with the exclusive mechanics Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, that cost 150,800 Swiss francs.
This series is an updated version of the Odemar platinum Royal Oak RD # 2, the thinnest watch with an automatic calendar, presented last year after 5 years of work at the manufacturing research laboratory.
The victory of this particular model in the Watch Oscar 2019 (as the Geneva
Watch Grand Prix is often called) is an illustration of the simple formula for success, concluded in the harmony of traditional craftsmanship, developed over the centuries and the competent use of the achievements of our time.
Bvlgari won two nominations this year. Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic with the thinnest 3.3 mm chronograph — the company’s fifth world record in five years — deservedly won a prize in the corresponding nomination. The Serpenti Misteriosi Romani of the same brand is also the record holder — the most expensive watch ever created by this brand. A one of a kind, cuff-watch in the shape of a snake costs 1,771,000 Swiss francs. The price is fully justified by the quantity and quality of precious stones and precious metals. The base is 18-carat white gold, the snake’s head is Sri Lankan sapphire of more than 10 carats, another 674 sapphires are 32.49 carats each, baguette and pave diamonds are 63.33 carats on the case, bracelet and dial. The quartz movement is specially decorated with the Bvlgari logo.
Permitted beauty (pages 54-55)
What cosmetics do true Muslim women choose? Why is halal beauty products popular not only among Muslims, but one of the most successful companies producing ‘permitted’ cosmetics is located in Canada? And finally, how to receive a halal certificate for cream, lipstick and powder? All this and much more, in the beauty review of The M.O.S.T. magazine.
In the Arabic dictionary, the word ‘halal’ has several meanings — ‘authorized,’ ‘legal;’ ‘complete’ and ‘inalienable.’ In
Islam, ‘halal’ is the antonym ‘haram’ and it prefixes to everything that the Koran permits and recommends. This is not just a theological term, but a way of life. Allowable and permissible under Muslim law, that is, halal, could pertain to food, drink, clothing, relationships between people, behavior and even cosmetics.
The concept of halal cosmetics has been established within the global beauty dictionary relatively recently — in the middle of the 2000s. In 2006, almost simultaneously, two Muslim women launched their own brands with products that fully meet the requirements of Islam. And what is surprising, one of them is located in Canada; the another one, in the UK.
In Birmingham, England, Samina Ahter wondered, “If you can’t eat certain products, then why do you put them on your face?” Later she said in numerous interviews: “Almost all creams and lotions contain substances of animal and synthetic origin, that are prohibited by Islam laws. It’s strange to refuse, for example, alcohol and use an alcoholcontaining tonic for the face.” For two years, Ahter tested new products, after which she launched her own Samina
Pure Make-up line, which became the first company in the UK to sell Islamicapproved cosmetics. Her line of products mainly consists of, lipstick, eye-shadow, mascara and powder, with prices ranging from 2 to 70 pounds.
Canadian Laila Mandi has focused on skin care and launched halal creams and serums, including anti-aging ones, which certainly boosted the popularity of her OnePure brand.
In general, the success of halal cosmetics is in its composition. It should be an absolutely natural product, with a shelf life of up to 6 months from the date of production, which proves the absence of preservatives. In addition, the correct cosmetics for Muslims, should not contain ethyl alcohol and animal fat, as well as collagen, elastin, ambergris, allantoin, ethanol, gelatin, tallow and its derivatives, snail mucus, cochineal extract. Any elements that have been tested on animals, as well as artificial flavorings, are considered unacceptable. Eliminating everything ‘harmful’ according to religion, manufacturers of halal cosmetics received not just an ethical product, but an absolutely organic product made of natural plant substances and oils.
A document confirming the purity of any product for a Muslim is issued by several organizations, among them, for example, are the global company from U.S. Halal Certification and British HMC.
An inner harmony of Max Barskih (pages 66-75)
It was this singer and composer, who returned the romanticism of the 1990s to modern music. It was his stylized music composition “I Want to Dance,” released in 2014, that launched the mechanism of tremendous interest from modern musicians in the melody and meanings of the 2000s. The winner of the MTV Europe Music Awards and a record 10 platinum discs for his last 2 albums, Max Barskih was named the Ambassador of Russianspeaking music in the world by American Forbes magazine. In 2020, he will start his second world tour, which will include more than 25 countries — from Denmark to Australia. However, he decided to spend the last moments of his outgoing 2019 tour with an Azerbaijani reader on a oneon-one basis.
The M.O.S.T.: In one of your previous interviews you repeated several times: «I have found inner harmony.» How did you get it? Through experience? Through misery? Through faith?
Max Barskih: I was able to find it through knowing and accepting myself, communicating with myself and my inner voice. Thus, I was able to put everything in its place and become more harmonious. Of course, I am a creative person, and sometimes I can’t find a common language with myself. Then my stress begins, and sometimes, comes a depression. In the fight against this, the right books and good people help me. However, if I feel even a hint of this condition, I have a cure — my music.
The M.O.S.T.: Traits of a person are rooted from childhood. What influenced you in that period of time?
Max Barskih: I can’t say that my childhood was absolutely sweet, starting within my own environment; ending with the relationship with my parents and school. Already in adulthood, looking back, I am clearly aware of all the things that happened to me, and I understand why they happened in this way. Fortunately, I learned how to set up my life correctly, to be independent and free from external circumstances, keeping myself inside, no matter what emotions try to swallow me, and no matter how other people try to influence me.
As a child, I dreamed a lot, because
I often remained alone with myself, playing. I built up whole worlds for myself and already then understood that I would explore this world — I would travel a lot and never stop at one city. I am happy that the profession that I have chosen for myself, allows me to touch the cultures from very different countries and people.
But, first of all, music opened for me a quick understanding of cultures, in particular, American and European ones. I watched various music videos of foreign artists and in my head, saw myself on a stage. In the most melancholy moments of my childhood, I went into the world of my fantasies and created my future there. This is probably why, without realizing, I projected myself to this attraction.
The M.O.S.T.: Next year you will turn 30 years old, and you are preparing a world tour. Where will you go?
Max Barskih: This tour is a long-awaited year-long trip for me, and I plan to discover and explore new places, cities, countries, cultures, and of course, people. We will visit Australia, Denmark, Sweden and the Czech Republic for the first time. As a part of the NEZEMNAYA 2020 tour, we will present the show “7” which premiered in Kiev in 2018, with
some innovations and additions. We will also reveal our main surprise — the sixth album “1990.”
To do this, I prepared a fascinating music game, in which my fans will have to guess the city, where the new song from the album will be performed for the first time. After you hear the track at the concert, it will be available on all digital platforms.
See you at the concerts!
CEO of the Absheron Hotel Group, Martin Kleinmann discusses his vision for Azerbaijan’s future, Dinamo hotel’s first anniversary and his new hotel that opens in Baku next year. He also shares with us the passion that drives him to promote Azerbaijan’s tourism, his love of travel and how his grandmother’s Austrian Bed and Breakfast gave him first insight in to the world of hospitality.
The M.O.S.T.: You were appointed to the post of CEO of the Absheron Hotel Group in January 2019. What is your priority in this post and what kind of goals do you set yourself and your staff ?
Martin Kleinmann: We now look after the JW Marriott and the Four Seasons in terms of asset management, managing the Boulevard, Intourist, Dinamo,
Bilgah Beach, Pik Palace and Park Chalet in Azerbaijan. Our vision is to be the leading hospitality company, not just in Azerbaijan but the whole region. We’re already fairly strong within the country but our desire is to grow beyond the borders. For example, we have a hotel in Bodrum, but we also want to diversify to Georgia, as they are a strong feeder market. For the people who travel to the Caucasus, we want them to visit all our hotels within the neighbouring countries.
I took the job in January, so we are consolidating and building a new team to ensure all the properties we have are in excellent condition, especially with the changes in the country’s strategy to tourism so we adapt our offerings to our customers. When we arrived here in Baku six years ago there weren’t many tourists, it was all corporate business, and now all of a sudden we have a lot of guests coming from the Middle
East, Asia, China, for example. We are opening a truly authentic Chinese restaurant at the Boulevard Hotel from next year to cater for our international visitors.
Tourism development is not just about telling people to come; you have to develop your infrastructure and tailor it to their needs so there’s enough here for them to be interested in.
Azerbaijan has a clear message with active open representation offices all geared towards tourism. We think it’s important to keep everything authentic, but we need to preserve what people love about Azerbaijan.
With our company growth, we need to set up a solid foundation to ensure we are internationally recognised, and that we deliver on our promises.
The M.O.S.T.: What motivated you to go into the hotel industry?
Martin Kleinmann: My Grandmother had a bed and breakfast in a ski resort in Austria where I spent most of my vacations, so hospitality has always been a part of my life. Although I initially began a law degree, I decided I wanted to travel the world and work everywhere and hospitality was one of the professions with no limitations. You see a lot when you travel, but you only scratch the surface, the hotel industry gave me the chance to live and experience different cultures — I don’t look back.
I have worked all over the world, China, Istanbul, Cairo, Bahrain, New Delhi, Germany and the US, and now Baku for the past 6 years.
In this exclusive interview Egyptian Tourism Minister Rania Al-Mashat speaks on new reform program aimed at strengthening the competitiveness of Egypt’s tourism sector, safety and security measures of foreign visitors, which allowed the country to win The World Travel & Tourism Council Global Champion Award in 2019.
The M.O.S.T.: Could you tell our readers about current cooperation between our countries in the field of tourism? Do you share the huge experience of Egypt in tourism with Azerbaijan?
Rania Al-Mashat: To start with, I would like to assure that the Azerbaijani market is a promising market for Egypt and that the Ministry of Tourism is keen on attracting more Azerbaijani tourists. The cooperation between our countries in tourism is continuous and fruitful and there have been many joint meetings to enhance this cooperation on many fronts. This collaboration is supported by a joint memo of cooperation, signed in 2007. In light of this cooperation we share our experiences in tourism.
The M.O.S.T.: What impact do you expect from the launch of a new direct flight between Baku and Sharm-El-Sheikh?
Rania Al-Mashat: I expect that the new direct flight will have an enormous impact on encouraging tourism between the two countries. I would like to seize this opportunity to refer to the new Aviation Incentive Program, which strengthens price competitiveness to increase inbound tourism to Egypt.