Borneo Insider's Guide

The Cultural Pilgrim

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A cultural pilgrim doesn’t want to experience a country as a tourist. These travellers are ready to go off the beaten track to shed their own cultural norms and experience day-today life as a true blue local. Only homestays, locally made products and local food need apply. Brunei

Vultures for history and culture will find inexhausti­ble resources in this peaceful Sultanate. In this modern day and age you will still be able to trace 700 years of its storied history in the buildings and landmarks you see today, and it is simply as gawk-worthy as any fancy skyscraper in a bustling metropolis.

Accommodat­ions are plentiful in Brunei, but why would you stay in a concrete structure when you can experience the genuine warmth and welcome of a local family’s home? Community is the heart of Brunei, and their many homestay options reflect this. There are great options for you in every district, but if you want a proper Bruneian experience, we would advise you to hail a boat from the jetty, hop on, head into the water village and into the waiting arms of Kemariah Durahman and her home, the Kunyit 7 Lodge. Kampong Ayer, Brunei’s famed water village, is the largest residentia­l water village in Southeast Asia and a Bruneian treasure that has truly stood the test of time. Known as the ‘Venice of the East’, this historical settlement is home to more than 9,000 people. If you’re looking to live like a local, travel like a local, and eat like a local, then this is the place for you.

There is local food a-plenty in Brunei, and many places for you to try it out. Stick to Kampong Ayer and eat soto with a view of the Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Saleha Bridge at Restoran Terapung (Floating Restaurant), which offers delicious meals that needs little in the way of frills. But you simply cannot go to Brunei without trying their ambuyat – which we would recommend you do post-haste at Tarindak D’seni. For more local gastronomi­cal treats, head on over to the Pasar Pelbagai Barangan Gadong (Gadong Night Market) for a plethora of delicious local treats to try.

Now your stomach’s fed, time to feed the thirst for history and culture! A simple walk around the city center will more than satisfy your needs, with the Brunei Arts and Handicraft Centre, the Royal Regalia Museum, the Royal Wharf, among many others, all giving you an insight into what Brunei looked like at a simpler time. Make sure you stop for a photo op at the magnificen­t Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

While taking this walking tour, make sure you stop at Tamu Kianggeh, which is located by the Kianggeh River, where you can buy some local handicraft­s while loading up on some delectable local snacks.

Sabah

Is it possible for a cultural pilgrim to not become enamoured with Sabah, otherwise known as ‘Land below the wind’, a state known for its multicultu­ralism? Different ethnic groups live together peacefully here, with a history that can be traced back to early 15th century.

A haven of history and culture can be found in the state of Sabah, and the best way to experience its authentici­ty is to check into a homestay for a true Sabahan experience. Options are many, and it truly depends on which region of Sabah you would prefer to stay in. A three-hour drive from Kota

Kinabalu will take you to Kudat, aka the Tip of Borneo, located in the upper north state of Sabah, and also a major centre for the Rungus ethnic community. It is also fantastica­lly beautiful: a trip to Tanjung Simpang Mengayau (which means ‘lingering junction’, so named because this is where the South China Sea meets with the Sulu Seas flowing from the east) will afford you the best sunset and moonlit views. It’s an easy stroll along this rocky outcrop that forms the ‘Tip of Borneo’, and you can even spend some time walking along the sands of the beautiful Kalampunia­n Beach.

If authentici­ty is what you want, then check into the

Rungus Longhouse in Kampung Bavanggazo – made completely out of traditiona­l materials such as split bamboos for walls and nipah palm leaves for roofing. Here, you’ll be able to experience living like a true Rungus ethnic – dining on traditiona­l food and enjoying their traditiona­l performanc­es.

Complete this cultural trip by paying a visit to Tamu Kudat – a market where you can shop like a local, eat like a local, and haggle like a local too. This is a great way to discover local produce from this region, and unique Rungus handicraft­s to bring home.

Sarawak

The Land of the Hornbills is a state that veers away from tourist trap clichés and encourages you to go off the beaten track – and what a trail it will take you on. Sarawak is a land rich in history, cultural diversity, myths and folklore, and natural wonders - perfect reasons why this should be a travel destinatio­n for any culture-thirsty traveller.

Malaysia’s largest state is home to 27 ethnic groups with 45 different dialects, so if you’re looking to hang out with the locals and experience an authentic day-to-day life here, you’ll be spoiled for choice. We’ve mentioned that Sarawak is Malaysia’s largest state so expect a fair bit of journeying to get to your destinatio­n. It’s all part of the experience, after all. We’re zeroing in on Rumah

Nyuka Longhouse, located in Ulu Sarikei (the closest major town is Sibu, located 85km away), and as it’s located in a hilly region, the best way to get here is by taking a winding drive along crests of hills. If you can stomach the heights, then you’ll appreciate the scenic views this motorcar rollercoas­ter ride affords you.

This longhouse has been around since 1955 and if you’re wondering how it’s still standing strong, it’s because the longhouse is made entirely out of ‘belian’ wood, aka tropical ironwood. Needless to say, it’s pretty hardy timber.

Around 40 families live in this longhouse, and it’s a great way to experience the people of Sarikei’s hospitalit­y. Visitors can trek to nearby waterfalls and learn about the day-to-day life of the Iban lifestyle – which includes having some fun in the ruai (the main hall), and seeing how they process their homegrown food. They also make an assortment of handicraft­s made from bamboo and rattan sourced by the surroundin­g jungle.

Venture out of Sarikei and back to Sibu, and make sure to visit the Jetty Paradom – a historical landmark that was built in 1954. Step inside one of the kopitiams near the river for a cup of coffee and sit back and enjoy the view.

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