The Blue Whales of Sri Lanka

In the last two years, I have had the privilege to swim with the blue whales in Sri Lanka. Each year, there is only a small window of six weeks in March and April where one can meet the blue whales. In southern

Sri Lanka, Mirissa, large ferry boats head out to watch the whales feed. This happens to be situated in one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes, with an average of 290 ships passing through per day. Unfortunately, this lane coincides with a large blue whale feeding ground, leading to an alarmingly high rate of ship strike incidents. While studies have indicated that by moving the shipping lanes as little as 15 nautical miles south would see a drastic reduction in fatalities by ship strikes, little is being done to change the current situation.

Fortunately, there is also blue whale tourism further to the north, albeit on a much smaller scale, and it is here I have been fortunate to momentarily engage with these gorgeous marine mammals.

From within the confines of our small boat, we peer out towards the horizon, searching with a desperate desire for that telltale spout that signals a whale surfacing. Just as the whalers of yore mercilessly did before us, we rush with great anticipation upon hearing the cue, “There!” bellowing out with excitement. We must hurry: Our hull slaps hard across the waves as the whale begins its short surface interval to replenish its lungs with oxygen – five to seven deep breaths are all it needs before it dives deep to feed upon the tiny orange krill that mass there. This brief period is our only opportunity to get close enough to enter the blue whale’s world. Like frantic seals on the beach, we stumble through that deep blue transition into the inner sanctum of their world.

The scope of their magnificence is immediate. To dive down and stare into the knowing eye of a blue whale – an eye that looks back with utmost intelligence – is a life-changing moment only few can comprehend.