Compass Points – Robert Stedman
In our troubled world, all of us want a place that’s safe to travel to. There is such a place— it’s called Chiang Mai.
FIND THE MOOD
King Mengrai the Great built Chiang Mai in 1296 and fortified the town with a massive wall and wide moat. The wall and the moat are still there, and from them Chiang Mai gets its mood. To find that mood, set out early in the morning, when the streets are still and cool. Start in the middle of town and walk westward. Through the morning mist the silhouette of a wall will appear, and then a gate, Tha Phae Gate. Here, there’s a small cafe. Take a seat, order a coffee and let your imagination go. It wasn’t always this way, peace and quiet.
Try to envision what history books have to tell – painted elephants moving into battle; soldiers with long lances and pointed hats, and amour made of tough buffalo hides, fighting ferociously. Imagine these victorious soldiers returning, in their red sashes, and their bright headbands, swinging jeweled swords that flash in the sun, marching through the same Tha Phae Gate.
ELEPHANTS ON THE MARCH
Suddenly, you no longer have to use your imagination. What you’re now seeing is real. You are back to present day, and just as in days of old, mahouts bring their elephants into the city through the same rustic gate.
Every morning the elephants march single file through the opening. They enter the old walled town the same as they did in days past. Huge as they are, they seemingly walk on cushioned feet, stirring up dust as they wobble along. This is what is so exciting about Chiang Mai. The past is the present.
KNOW THE WALL
Today, modern sounds of Tutuks and tenwheeled lorries and motorcycles, all trying to out-noise one another are heard. Look at the gate where the elephants had passed, and in their place, lines of cars and Thai girls sitting side-saddle on the back of motorcycles.
It’s amazing that some people will go to Chiang Mai and never know about the wall. It is in places buried from view, behind power cables, telephone poles and posters. Nevertheless, it’s there, the grand old Chiang Mai wall that played such an important role in the history of Southeast Asia; a wall dilapidated, crumbling and decayed in parts, rebuilt in others.
MAKING THE WALL
We know that 10,000 men constructed the brick and mortar wall in only three months. First the king’s army of labourers dug a 30m wide moat encircling the city. The earth that was excavated was used to make the brick fortress, 4m high and three meters wide. Four gates, each 5m wide, were built into the four walls.
No permanent bridges spanned the moat. Temporary ones were made of bamboo, which could easily be removed in the event of danger. Gates opened each morning at 6:00am and closed at 6:00pm, and were locked from the inside with heavy beams.
SIEGE THE DAY
Down through the years Chiang Mai was constantly under siege. Not today. Find a grassy knoll under the shade of a tree along the moat and relax for an hour or two. In the afternoon heat, young boys turn the moat into their private swimming pool. They splash in the muddy water and dive from the ramparts and from low hanging tree branches. But the best time is dawn. You can feel the mood of the city then and the history. You can almost hear the cannons.
Temples in Chiang Mai range stylistically from early Mon and Sukothai prototypes to Ayutthaya and Burmese-style monuments. Since early times architects in the north characteristically favoured large multi-layered roofs, which swoop down, lower than those of Bangkok temples, and less flamboyant colours you see in the south.
MEET THE MARKET
Chiang Mai is a city of art and culture. A veritable bazaar of silverwork, ceramics, antiques, and hill tribe handicrafts can be found. The city has several areas known for their unique shopping venues. The central area offers the night markets, hill tribe handicraft shops along Tapae Road, and large shopping complexes for utilitarian goods and a handful of specialized boutiques.
The night market is located on Changklan Road in the heart of the city, and one of the best of any northern cities, not only for its shopping but nightlife and food as well. It’s a must for any visit to Chiang Mai.