Kota Kinabalu’s Island Sanctuary
WHEN DAVID BOWDEN NEEDED A GOOD REST, AS MOST OF US DO FROM TIME TO TIME, HE CHOOSE A SMALL ISLAND A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE MAINLAND OF SABAH, MALAYSIA, WHERE HE FOUND WHAT HE WAS LOOKING FOR.
For those who think an island paradise just a few kilometres offshore from a large city is an unlikely proposition, I have a surprise for you. Book a room at Sutera Sanctuary Lodges at Manukan Island just off Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, East Malaysia and you will not only be pleasantly surprised, you will have the tropical island retreat you dreamed of.
I REALLY NEEDED REST
I had been exploring the wilds of Borneo and visiting the UNESCO recognised Kinabalu Park, dominated by Mount Kinabalu at 4,095m, and was in need of some rest and recreation before returning to the ‘real world’.
It was suggested that the island (one of five islands comprising Tunku Abdul Rahman Park) was just the place, and the only place to stay was at Sutera Sanctuary Lodges that now manages the accommodation in the park. I had visited the park several years back and noticed then that, being within a national park, the accommodation was nothing very special, so I made further enquiries.
RATES REFLECT RESORT
Upon checking, I could not help but notice that the accommodation rates now reflected hotel prices so I suspected that what I had seen previously must have been upgraded. Now intrigued and still in need of a good rest, I booked a chalet and headed off to Manukan Island with great expectation.
The boat journey to the park departed from the marina in Sutera Harbour and took just 20 minutes in a fast speedboat. Upon arriving, I could not help but notice the popularity of the island with daytrippers from Kota Kinabalu who came for a day’s snorkelling, sunbaking and resting
beneath tall and shady casuarina trees.
SWEET SECLUSION
It looked far from secluded, but I was soon guided, on foot, to my hillside villa (there are no vehicles on the island). Upon entering the gate to this private, and definitely secluded resort, I realised I was far from the madding crowd but with views of the Kota Kinabalu skyline just a few kilometres away.
There are only 29 chalets. Some (17-beach suites) are close to the restaurant, while my villa of choice was at the more remote Tambun Beach that is classified as a hillside villa (there are ten). The highest category rooms are the two Manukan Villas.
WOW! TO THE CHANGE
What were once dark tropical hardwood chalets have been painted white in and out to give them a sense of space and airiness. My first reaction was ‘wow’ what a change from before, and my surprise continued as I entered my two-storey villa decked out with contemporary fittings.
I was very impressed with the sense of space, which also included two small outdoor decks for relaxing and taking in the beachside ambiance. It was perched high above the beach with an elevated wooden walkway down to the private beach with shaded deckchairs.
ENCHANTING DOWNSTAIRS
The downstairs section of my villa was mostly occupied by an open-plan lounge room with large television and DVD player with sufficient channels to keep me in touch with the world. There is a small selection of books including Enchanting Borneo that I read with interest especially the section on the island.
A small kitchen bench has tea and coffee-making facilities and a small fridge.
A few steps from this area were the bathroom with flashes of red tiles, a toilet, shower and a large twoperson bath/jacuzzi. Unfortunately, I was just one person.
TOTALLY UP TO SPEED
Upstairs, a very comfortable bed in a spacious and contemporary styled room ensured a restful sleep. Air-conditioning and ceiling fans worked overtime to keep the tropical heat and humidity outside the villa where it belonged. Sadly, the wi-fi was not up to speed but I was there to rest so I soon forgot about the outside world.
Perahu Restaurant, BBQ Arang Restaurant and the Sand Bar are located on the main beach and accessible to in-house and dayvisit guests. Breakfast and dinner times are very restful but busy at lunchtime. Staff can also organise private meals on the beaches.
CARE FOR KUNDASANG?
Meals served include some classic international dishes and local delights and are generous in portion size. Local Kundasang fried noodles includes crisp vegetables from this mountainous location while the jackfruit soup with chicken is deliciously spicy. Beer, wine and cocktails are served in the restaurant and the bar. Keep an eye out for Monitor Lizards that also appreciate the food served in the restaurant.
There is a small guest-only pool although the shallow turquoise waters surrounding the island are far more enticing. A football field and the Goodie Bag Shop souvenir shop may also entice you.
Visitors need to time their arrival and departure with the four scheduled daily boats to and from the mainland. Guests can also charter Amazing Love, a luxury motor launch for an intimate dinner, cocktail reception, island hopping to Gaya or Sapi Island or simply to admire the sunset.
ISLAND ACTIVITIES
While I did not attempt it, staff can arrange a guided walk around the 20ha-island. Vegetation on the island comprises lowland tropical forest, coconut palms and whispering casuarinas. What did they whisper?
Sunset Point is just a 150m-walk from the main beach although my recommendation is to arise at 6:00am (being East Malaysia, the sun rises one hour earlier than Singapore and West Malaysia though in the same time zone) and walk to the northern end of the island and watch the sunrise over Mount Kinabalu. Get the timing right and you will get the perfect photograph; arrive too late and you won’t.
HIGH RATINGS
Sutera Sanctuary Lodges at Manukan Island is an excellent venue to rest for a few days. Guests enjoy the privacy of their secluded beach, which is a blessing as the rest of coral-fringed island tends to be overrun with tourists during the day. As sunset approaches, they all head back to the mainland and you have the island all to yourself – along with the wildlife.
What did the whispering casuarinas whisper? Well, you will just have to visit yourself to find out.