On Safari at Settlers Drift
WE WERE STOPPED. THE LIONS WERE WALKING TOWARDS US. I’VE BEEN ON A NUMBER OF SAFARIS BEFORE AND FOR THE MOST PART I WAS DISAPPOINTED. BUT NOT THIS MORNING. NOT YESTERDAY. NOT AT KARIEGA GAME RESERVE IN SOUTH AFRICA, WRITES FLOYD COWAN.
You know it is not going to be an average day when you wake up before the alarm goes off. Those mornings when you’ve slept little all night, when you’re not at home, when you have to be up in the dark, you know this will not be an average day at a game reserve in South Africa.
GOODBYE MY FRIENDS
I woke up the previous morning in The Radisson Blu Hotel, Port Elizabeth knowing it was the last day our group of writers from SE Asia would be together. We had driven from Cape Town to Stellenbosch and along the Garden Route, experiencing adventures and enjoying the bounty of South Africa. We’d divide into three and go off to different safari locations.
The groups were chosen by flight times. This resulted in my being paired with two charming Vietnamese, Le Huong Giang and Tran Viet Dung. We would be settled into Settler’s Drift, part of the Kariega Game Reserve. I was disappointed at being separated from our local tour guide, Warren Morris. He is very personable and has great local and general knowledge. If you are in Cape Town looking for a guide, I highly recommend him.
THE FRIENDLIEST CITY
This day starting in Port Elizabeth would be quite incredible too. Port Elizabeth has two nick names: The Windy City and The Friendliest City. Fortunately, we learned more about how friendly it could be rather than how windy.
After breakfast we drove to the International Airport, not to the departure terminal but to John Huddlestone’s Helicopter Charter & Training office. John wasn’t there, but Kelvin who is a pilot and takes care of Flight Operations, was. Kelvin told us we would be going up in groups of three in the Robinson R44. John has over 23,000 flying hours, mostly in Robinson helicopters. The company has three R44s, two R22s, and one fixed wing Savana and one Sky Ranger.
UP UP & AWAY
“You won’t be flying with John today,” Kelvin stated, “but she is an experienced pilot with 2000 hours of flying and was trained by John.” Lourinda Huddleston was at the controls. For sightseeing a helicopter is great as it is not so high and not so fast. We went out north over the edge of the city, over its freeways, along the coast to a point where we could see the Radisson Blu before we gently settled down again. It wasn’t a long trip, but certainly enjoyable.
Our group broke up and we departed for Settler’s Drift which was about a two-hour drive away, 80ks, as it included a coffee break. In addition to great coffee at Nanaga Farm Stall there was an excellent variety of souvenirs, condiments, clothes, stuffed animals, toys and a market of fresh fruit and vegetables.
INTO THE WILDERNESS
The highway cut through wilderness, humpbacked with hills, plains and forest, passed small settlements. We were soon turning off the pavement and facing a large gate that opened and allowed us into the Game Reserve.
In a short time, we reached a small group of buildings, and a wooden walkway that lead down to the Bushman’s River. Drinks were available as we awaited the boat to take us to Settler’s Drift lodge.
ON THE BUSHMAN’S
As we motored along the Bushman’s we had good views of the birds, including large white egrets, grey herons and wagtails, curious giraffes strolled through the brush.
I posted pictures of myself on Facebook – which is not something I do very often. I was in my element as I enjoyed a beer and gazed at the landscape. Arriving at a small wooden jetty there was a Toyoto Land Cruiser, safari edition, waiting to take us to Settlers Drift lodge.
LUXURY LODGE
Welcome drinks and cold towels awaited us when we pulled up in front of the lobby. I was immediately charmed by the beauty of the open spacious lounge / dining area with vast windows, high ceilings, fireplace, wicker sofas, leather chairs. Outside there was a firepit with a circular sofa around it. All designed to enjoy the views. There is a bar and a small shop with lots of souvenirs. This is a place where you would be happy wiling the day away. As we were only there overnight, that opportunity eluded me.
There are nine luxurious tented safari suites with canvas roofs. Each suite has an indoor and outdoor shower, bedroom and living room and a private deck which is a great viewpoint. My room was amazing. Vast, it was. I had little time to unpack but still managed to get things spread over a great area. I repacked my backpack for the afternoon drive into the game reserve.
“This is a place where you would be happy wiling the day away”
WILDERNESS WAYNE
Wayne, a game ranger who grew up in this area, was our guide and driver. He demonstrated over and over how well he knows the land, the terrain, the plants and animals. Mother and daughter, Caroline and Isobel (Izy) Steane, were already in the Land Cruiser, which was loaded with two ice boxes. Wayne gave us a briefing mostly about what we should not do – such as stand up in the vehicle, especially when animals are near.
The road bulldozed through the wilderness was rough, often just two dirt tracks. We bounced around, especially going downhill and around corners and going up hill and on straight stretches. I was sitting in the last seat in the roofless vehicle that was higher than the ones in front that tiered down. Our first destination was up a steep hill. We parked then did a short climb to a lookout point with views of a great plain to a distant horizon. Below the precipitous drop was the Bushman’s River. What a view! As we took it in, I noticed something moving along a ridge. “Those are dussies,” Wayne said of what looked like small furry balls scurrying on the steep slope.
ANIMALS EVERYWHERE
Wayne told us about the flora and fauna – such as the Painted Brush Lily, details about the elephants, pointing out birds, talking about the relationship between animals. We saw many giraffe – I loved their gangly gait that made them look as if they were running in slow motion. The impalas, in contrast, darted about in super-fast motion.
We passed an eland with magnificent horns, taking a break at the side of the road. There were many animals milling around as we circled about and were rewarded when a family of elephants came tramping out of the bush. A big bull and his female partner, two older children and a baby, made their way along the edge of the grassland. They were all in a playful mood.
EACH HAS A ROLE
The baby rolled on the ground, looking very adorable. Playing to the audience Daddy grabbed a tremendously long root and ripped it out of the ground and munched on it. “Did he kill the tree? Le Huong Giang asked.
“That tree is done for,” Wayne responded. “That is one of the roles of the elephant, to keep the bush invading the grassland. They create space for new vegetation and spread the seeds of the tree.” All the animals play a role in the environment. If anyone of them were to disappear it would have severe repercussions.
SUNDOWNERS
With the sun closing in on the horizon Wayne drove to the edge of an escarpment giving us excellent views and a place to watch the sun go down. The hood of the Land Rover became the counter for the tray of snacks and several bottles of alcohol from which Wayne made Sundowners. We sipped drinks and watched as the light faded away leaving a very thick night.
It was exciting driving through the night with animal eyes glittering in the dark. Wayne’s powerful light illuminated them. We were welcomed again upon our return to Settlers Drift and told that dinner was ready as soon as we wanted it.
AN EARLY START
Before we split up, we made plans for the following day. We would be picked up at 9:30 as our flight was at 13:00, departing Port Elizabeth Airport for OR Tambo International in Johannesburg where we would make our connection to Dubai and, for me, on to Singapore. Wayne determined we should start the morning safari earlier, at 5:00am. Luckily Caroline and Izy were in agreement. They are experienced travelers. Having been on many safaris they realized it doesn’t always go according to script.
I joined Le Huong Giang and Tran at our table and the meal began with a glass of South African wine, and then corn soup, steak with rice and a fantastic cheese platter. Though we’d been together for a week this was the first time I had a real chance to talk with my Vietnamese friends. It was an ambient evening in this safari lodge, with the fireplace now ablaze and the sense of anticipation that we would see lions in the morning. I wasn’t optimistic as not one safari I’ve been on had we seen the big cats.
LUCK OF THE DRAW
Dinner over Le Huong Giang and Tran retreated to their suites while I took my glass of wine and cheese to join Caroline and Izy. I filled them in on the trip I was on.
“How were you so lucky to come to Settler’s Drift? Caroline asked, “It is the best of the lodges.” “Luck of the draw.”
“We’ve seen more animals in a shorter time on this trip, than we have on any others,” said Izy.
By the end of the trip we would see elephants, giraffes, buffalo, impala, buffalo, white and black rhinos, wildebeest, zebras, many birds, including the graceful egrets, ostrich and more.
AWAKE IN THE NIGHT
The alarm was set for 4:30am. Everything was packed that wouldn’t be needed in the morning. Not packed were clothes for the safari and different clothes for the long trip back to Singapore.
I mentioned the canvas roof as these luxurious suites are ‘tents’ of sorts. About 2:00am the wind picked up and rippled the roof. It startled me awake
as I wasn’t sure what was making the noise and where it was coming from. It was as if someone was in the room rustling about. After a few minutes I determined what was happening, but from then it was a restless not much sleep night until it was time to get up.
LOOKING FOR LIONS
I found the light switch and woke the room, pushing back the shadows. I washed but didn’t shower as there was no time to waste. We had to go find lions, which might not be easy, and then get back and repack. Then I would shower.
We gathered in the dark, quiet lobby and then went into the night in the Land Rover. Food to eat on the go had been prepared. At 5:00am we set off. We roved under the mostly starless sky as high cloud was helping create a ‘green drought.’ After half an hour we reached a gate in the fence that confined the lions and the rhinos in their territory. Overnight rain had made the trail muddy and Wayne spotted paw prints. The dark slowly gave way to light as we prowled near the fence and then drove to a high spot that gave us a view of the landscape. Wayne spotted lions in the distance, making their way up a slope, walking away from us.
PRIDE OF LIONS
There were two other vehicles in the vicinity, and all wee in touch giving each other intel on the lions. Wayne didn’t go where I expected him to, but took a different route away from the lions, circling around them. We came out at a clearing as the lions came over a hill, passed two Land Rovers and walked directly towards us. There was quite a number of them.
Two females frolicked with each other, running about and play fighting.
The males were more sedate, just going where they were going, some keeping their distance. One old male, who didn’t seem to have a care in the world, walked right at our vehicle. We were told that as long as we stayed still, didn’t stand in the vehicle, they would ignore us. They were used to the vehicles; they were just part of the landscape.
TOO OLD FOR SCHOOL
The old lion came so close I could see the scars on his face and head. He was a battle tested veteran and as I looked him over, he looked up and we made eye contact, just feet away. This wasn’t good and I quickly looked away. He turned his head and lumbered on. Later when I told Le Huong Giang about this she replied, “He probably thought you were too old to eat.”
It’s nice to have friends.
A DELICIOUS DAY
We crossed the reserve, saw zebras, a black rhino, impalas and a white rhino with her one-and-a-halfmonth-old baby. It looked at the world in wonder. “We don’t say how many rhinos we have because we don’t want poachers coming after them, Wayne stated.” Their horns, the target of the poachers, are cut off to discourage them.
Breakfast was a choice of coffee or hot chocolate and a selection of cookies. Presented on a counter that fit onto the front of the Land Rover, it was a most delicious offering. It was an excellent morning and we were all too soon back to the lodge. Our driver was waiting for us when I reached the lobby, and so the long trip home began.
KARIEGA GAME RESERVE
Situated on South Africa’s malaria-free Garden Route, Kariega Game Reserve spans 10,000 hectares of pristine wilderness. It is home to the Big 5 and is a paradise for birdlife. A variety of safari activities are offered including twice daily game viewing from open safari vehicles with qualified game rangers, river cruises, guided bush walks, canoeing, river fishing and beach trips by boat. Spa treatments are available. There are five safari lodges - Settlers Drift in Kariega Game Reserve, River Lodge, Ukhozi Lodge, Main Lodge and The Homestead.v