Retreat to the Real Bali at Sang Giri
NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES I GO TO BALI I ALWAYS FIND SOMETHING NEW THAT MAKES EVERY VISIT TO THE INDONESIAN ISLAND SOMETHING SPECIAL. THIS TIME IT WAS A NIGHT’S STAY IN A REMOTE GLAMPING LOCATION WITH A FAMILY AS DELIGHTFUL AS THE LOCATION, WRITES
One of the reasons that Bali is so popular – in addition to its image of being an exotic tropical paradise – is that there is so much to do. But the next time you go, don’t hit the wellworn tourist trail, get deep into heart of the island at Sang Giri Mountain Rainforest Glamping Bali.
MOUNTAIN RETREAT
While Sang Giri is relatively new, it was launched eight years ago, its roots go back much further. Aaron and Marina Lumakeki, brother and sister, now run the business their father Yunsar started thirty-five years ago. Yunsar was a young buck who got into tourism, driving, diving, guiding, doing whatever, with the support of his wife Tati.
He was creator/ Founder of Phinisi Cruising programmes in Indonesia’s Little Sunda Islands, which were largely untouched by tourism at the time. As a Dive Master he was the first German speaking guide for diving in the Komodos. His travel business enterprises grew and provided him with the resources to buy and operate Sang Giri high in the cool mountains of Jatiluwih, deep in the rainforest.
We drove quickly past the UNESCO World Heritage Site Jatiluwih. We didn’t stop at the great viewing points over the historic rice paddies as we were late getting to Sang Giri. It was supposed to be a three-hour drive from the airport, but it took four hours.
SERVICE IS PARAMOUNT
The drive up the rough narrow road, a thin line in thick jungle, took us to Sang Giri’s Pakis Restaurant and lobby. You immediately understand that service and interaction with guests is very important to your hosts. Entering, there is a wall with chalk boards welcoming each new guest by name. Inside is a cosy and idyllic setting serving Balinese and Western cuisine – beer and wine.
Even before we’d parked our bags in our rooms, the red rice tea was recommended – and rightfully so. Chef Aaron, professionally trained at At-sunrice in Singapore, has developed not only the menu, but most of the dishes served. He has trained his local staff and they can now do the cooking if he isn’t there. The tents are up the hill and while we enjoyed red rice tea staff carted our bags to our tents.
A HEALTHY MENU
Homegrown and locally sourced produce is used for many of the freshly prepared dishes that includes mountain vegetables, herbs and rice and bread.
You can expect tofu with leek, wild grown veggies, green pumpkin, nasi bamboo. Every meal was delicious especially the all-important breakfast. For lunch and dinner, I am willing to try anything, but for breakfast, I’m pretty conservative. I didn’t have to worry as there were eggs, cooked any way you’d like, homemade jams – pineapple and strawberry – bread and honey. Cereal. The food and drink are exceptional. It is what you would expect in a Bali jungle retreat.
You might think that staying in a tent wouldn’t have the comfort you are looking for, but let me assure you, it is comfortable. Sang Giri Glamping offers accommodation that has been well thought out. It brings a feeling of tranquillity amidst the peaceful surrounding of the rainforest. Not to forget the fresh air. Up early to take in the view as the mist rises off the mountains. Breathe deeply. The air is so fresh you know it is going to be a special day.
THE TENTS
They call the accommodation ‘African-style Glamping
Tents’. Currently there are three Deluxe and five Grand Deluxe tents, each with en-suite bathrooms and a large private terrace. Two more are in the plans.
In each room is a superior quality orthopaedic queen-sized bed with a warm blanket – it can be cool at nights. There is hot and cold rain shower and a lady shower, and of-course a Western style toilet. The room is supplied with ‘bio soap’ that is made locally. There are a couple of things you might not expect such as a hard hat – in case of earthquakes – and a first aid kit. They try to think of everything to make your stay a safe one.
WARM & WOODY
I particularly enjoyed the lobby/dining area that is very cosy with its wood tables and chairs and bamboo walls. Add overstuffed sofas and a fireplace and you’ve got a very comfortable enchanting environment. Where better to relax and rejuvenate?
I wanted to go to bed early, but the conversation was too interesting. Yunsar, who had come for dinner, was joined by his long-time friends Rani Rackmani Moediarta and Dick Van der Meij. Along with two of Marina’s friends Ms Vania and Ms Thary, who had ridden a scooter all the way up from the coast there was Aaron demonstrating his musical talents. I was travelling with Eish, Irene and Aris.
The conversation was far ranging, engaging and entertaining. It’s not required that you go to bed late after considerable drinking.
ACTIVITIES
If you are more interested in action than talking there is a great deal to do in the area. One of the oldest temples in Bali is not too far away. Biking through the rice terraces to get there is one more way to enjoy the beauty of Bali. Sang Giri activities include nature walks with superb bird watching spots. In addition to the tiered rice fields there are majestic waterfalls, winding rivers and natural hot springs. For those seeking a little more adventure, jungle trekking, mountain biking and white-water rafting are available.
Adjacent to Sang Giri is a Nature Reserve that is home to numerous birds, Mice Deer, snakes and two types of monkeys. You can take walks through this untamed area.
JATILUWIH RICE TERRACES
After an enjoyable breakfast, we left with the regret that we didn’t have more time to stay longer. Though we knew them less than 24 hours we felt we were friends with the Lumakeki family.
This time we stopped to photograph the
Rice Terraces. UNESCO bestowed it the World Cultural Heritage designation not because of the beauty of the site but because of Subak, a social organization of the Balinese. Subak protected nature in Jatiluwih and regulated the social life of the local people.
When you drive in rural Bali you do not go in straight lines for very long. There are sudden 45O turns. There are roundabouts and roundabout roads. I marvel that drivers don’t get lost more often.
As we approached Bongkasa Pertiwi village not far from Ubud there are large signs along small roads advertising various places where you can swing.
MY SWING
I wasn’t too thrilled at the thought of going for a swing. I did a lot of swinging as a child and didn’t really feel the need to do anymore. I should’ve known that my buddy Aris Latiff, conducting this Indonesia Tourism Fam trip, wouldn’t lead me astray.