REVISITING JAPAN’S MANY ATTRACTIONS
FERRY DE BAKKER WRITES THAT OUTSIDE OF TOKYO AND KYOTO JAPAN HAS NUMEROUS CITIES AND REGIONS THAT HAVE NO SHORTAGE OF ATTRACTIONS.
Air travel is gradually opening up and I hope that we can soon visit the wonderful countries we have enjoyed in the past without requiring weeks of quarantine. For me, I can’t wait until I can visit Japan again, to discover more of its known, as well as hidden, gems. Japan has much to offer, in addition to enjoying the friendliness and politeness of its people. The two magnets of the country are Tokyo and Kyoto. Both offer so much that they require multiple visits to enjoy all there is. As a result, much has been written about them. So, instead, let us revisit some of my most beloved alternative destinations.
SPLENDID HAKONE
Hakone is one of Japan’s most popular hot spring resorts. It is known for its natural beauty and its breathtaking views of Mount Fuji. Located not too far from Tokyo, it is easy to get to by train. For me, the Hyatt Regency is the place to stay, with its refined, understated luxury, modern design and superb culinary options.
Hakone is home to an array of remarkable museums. Top of the bill is the Hakone Open
Air Museum, with its world-class collection of sculptures. You can also find a Picasso museum on its grounds. The inspirational Pola Museum of Art is equally impressive with, among others, its collection of Monet, Renoir and Cezanne paintings as well as its 176-strong collection of the famous, yet controversial, Foujita. There are other must-visit museums nearby, including the Museum of the Little Prince and the Lalique Museum. There is so much more to do and to see, such as taking leisurely strolls in Hakone’s parks and, especially, its botanic garden.
UNSPOILT KANAZAWA
Relatively calm Kanazawa, like Kyoto and Nara, was spared total destruction in World War II. It was lucky enough not to have been selected as a target of the US air raids. The city’s architectural heritage has therefore been preserved. Walking through some of the city’s historical parts makes you feel as if time has stood still.
A very special attraction is the Kenroku-en Park, the quintessential Japanese garden, albeit on a very large scale. Best to visit either early in the morning, say at 7:00am, or in the late afternoon, to avoid the crowds. The city’s 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art has many surprises, including its popular Leandro Erlichdesigned swimming pool, which isn’t what you think it is. An unusual place for contemplation is the D.T. Suzuki Museum, dedicated to the prominent Buddhist philosopher. The museum’s design by architect Taniguchi Yohio gives you a sense of tranquility and serenity that is hard to find in today’s ever-faster paced world. Finally, Kanazawa’s surroundings have more than a fair share of special places to visit.
WAJIMA, GEM ON THE NOTO PENINSULA
Wajima, the main city on the Noto Peninsula, is a charming small town of 35,000 inhabitants. Given that it is Japan’s centre of lacquerware and the attractions that the peninsula offers, I had expected a good number of tourists. How wrong I was. Yes, there are those who visit the town, but they are mainly Japanese nationals. The city’s sprawling 1,000 yearold morning market is well known, perhaps a bit overrated, but still a lot of fun.
The city has two main lacquerware museums, and a workshop where visitors can learn how to make it. There are many small galleries and ateliers in the main shopping street, where you can meet the artists and buy their delicate and outstanding, but often pricy, lacquerware. The Kiriko Lantern Museum houses a magnificent assembly of up to 15-metre-tall festival lanterns, which are used each August in events all over Noto. Wajima is home to excellent Japanese, French and Italian restaurants and this coastal town benefits from fresh seafood all year round provided by the Sea of Japan.
EYE-CATCHING KOBE
It is no surprise that Kobe is such a popular city. It is the kind of place where you feel at home immediately. The port is a good place to start your journey of eye-catching places: very nice for a stroll along the quays, a visit to the shopping and entertainment district and a meal
in one of the restaurants at Mosaic, along the waterfront. At Harbourland you will find Gaslight Street, lit up in the evenings by old-fashioned gas lamps and electric lights. Kitano-cho is the former 19th residence area of merchants and diplomats. A dozen of them have been preserved and are open to visitors. The most elaborate mansion is the Platon Decorative Arts Museum, also known as the Italian House. A delight!
Japan’s best sake, arguably, comes from the Kobe area. Visiting some of the top sake breweries is one the most attractive things to do, as it combines learning about the history of this captivating drink and how it is made, with the actual tasting of it. End your visit with a meal in Michelin Three-star Cá Cento of young and creative chef Shinya-san.
KURASHIKI STEALS YOUR HEART
Kurashiki is a modern city, founded in the 1920s it has some 500,000 inhabitants. Nothing spectacular to see here, even if there are a few museums worth visiting. However, the historic Bikan area is something else altogether. Here you will find white-painted 17th century-built warehouses, covered with black-tile roofs, alongside a canal with weeping willows on both sides. If anything, this is a romantic place. Over the years, the warehouses have been transformed into boutiques, restaurants and small, riveting galleries.
There are noteworthy traditional Japanese inns to stay in, especially the Ryori Roykan Tsurugata and the Ryokan Kurashiki. The city’s history as a traditional textile centre, shines through in its many denim-focused shops. There is a seemingly endlessly long shopping street parallel to the canal and this is a place to go to, if you are interested in original, handmade, authentic fashion. Don’t forget to allocate an entire morning or afternoon to visit the Ohara Museum of Art, opened in 1930. But, there is more, much more, to discover in Kurashiki.
SUPER COOL KARUIZAWA
Originally a post-town on the Nakasendo Way, which linked Kyoto and Tokyo, Karuizawa became a summer resort for wealthy Tokyo residents. In the late 1950s the then Crown-prince Akihito met his future bride, who became Empress Michiko, on a tennis court and the town became a romantic destination for Japanese lovers.
Today, Karuizawa is home to a number of genuinely unique hotels. New and different is the Shishi-iwa House, designed by Shigeru
Ban, one of Japan’s most celebrated architects. The city and surrounding areas have a wide array of restaurants, many either French or
Italian. Amazingly, there are no fewer than six contemporary art museums in this resort. All are must-visits, as they own and exhibit top-notch art
collections from the most famous international and Japanese painters and sculptors.
The Hiroshi Senju Museum is beautiful in an otherworldly sort of way. Architect Ryue Nishizawa has created a very delicate and lightfilled structure, with many floor-to-ceiling glass walls, overlooking a garden with a variety of coloured-leaf trees. Shopping? Go to the Prince Shopping Plaza, a huge discount fashion complex. What else? Cycling, trekking, golf, horse riding. In the winter, you can enjoy the ski resorts.
SAPPORO SUMMER IN THE CITY
The weather in Sapporo isn’t something to write home about for most of the year. But visit the city in June, July, August and part of September, and you will enjoy the best of its climate: mostly fair weather and mild temperatures. Obviously, the residents thoroughly enjoy this time of the year, and this is perhaps why everyone seems so content and so extra-ordinarily friendly.
Like everywhere else in Japan, there is no shortage of attractions in this young city. Sure, it is a bit out of town, but the large, unusual Moerenuma Park is everybody’s favourite. Designed by the Japanese-american artist Isamu
Noguchi, who was given a free hand by the city, he developed a park that continues to get ever more interesting as new ideas by other architects are added to the mix.
Hokkaido is famous for its fresh produce. Whatever culinary delight you can think of, it’s here and it is fresh. Indulge in the Hokkaido hairy crab. And the famous Sapporo soup curry. Or the ramen with miso paste stock. Delicious! This airy city with wide boulevards and lots of greenery is one of the very best places to visit in Japan.v