Asian Journeys

REVISITING JAPAN’S MANY ATTRACTION­S

FERRY DE BAKKER WRITES THAT OUTSIDE OF TOKYO AND KYOTO JAPAN HAS NUMEROUS CITIES AND REGIONS THAT HAVE NO SHORTAGE OF ATTRACTION­S.

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Air travel is gradually opening up and I hope that we can soon visit the wonderful countries we have enjoyed in the past without requiring weeks of quarantine. For me, I can’t wait until I can visit Japan again, to discover more of its known, as well as hidden, gems. Japan has much to offer, in addition to enjoying the friendline­ss and politeness of its people. The two magnets of the country are Tokyo and Kyoto. Both offer so much that they require multiple visits to enjoy all there is. As a result, much has been written about them. So, instead, let us revisit some of my most beloved alternativ­e destinatio­ns.

SPLENDID HAKONE

Hakone is one of Japan’s most popular hot spring resorts. It is known for its natural beauty and its breathtaki­ng views of Mount Fuji. Located not too far from Tokyo, it is easy to get to by train. For me, the Hyatt Regency is the place to stay, with its refined, understate­d luxury, modern design and superb culinary options.

Hakone is home to an array of remarkable museums. Top of the bill is the Hakone Open

Air Museum, with its world-class collection of sculptures. You can also find a Picasso museum on its grounds. The inspiratio­nal Pola Museum of Art is equally impressive with, among others, its collection of Monet, Renoir and Cezanne paintings as well as its 176-strong collection of the famous, yet controvers­ial, Foujita. There are other must-visit museums nearby, including the Museum of the Little Prince and the Lalique Museum. There is so much more to do and to see, such as taking leisurely strolls in Hakone’s parks and, especially, its botanic garden.

UNSPOILT KANAZAWA

Relatively calm Kanazawa, like Kyoto and Nara, was spared total destructio­n in World War II. It was lucky enough not to have been selected as a target of the US air raids. The city’s architectu­ral heritage has therefore been preserved. Walking through some of the city’s historical parts makes you feel as if time has stood still.

A very special attraction is the Kenroku-en Park, the quintessen­tial Japanese garden, albeit on a very large scale. Best to visit either early in the morning, say at 7:00am, or in the late afternoon, to avoid the crowds. The city’s 21st Century Museum of Contempora­ry Art has many surprises, including its popular Leandro Erlichdesi­gned swimming pool, which isn’t what you think it is. An unusual place for contemplat­ion is the D.T. Suzuki Museum, dedicated to the prominent Buddhist philosophe­r. The museum’s design by architect Taniguchi Yohio gives you a sense of tranquilit­y and serenity that is hard to find in today’s ever-faster paced world. Finally, Kanazawa’s surroundin­gs have more than a fair share of special places to visit.

WAJIMA, GEM ON THE NOTO PENINSULA

Wajima, the main city on the Noto Peninsula, is a charming small town of 35,000 inhabitant­s. Given that it is Japan’s centre of lacquerwar­e and the attraction­s that the peninsula offers, I had expected a good number of tourists. How wrong I was. Yes, there are those who visit the town, but they are mainly Japanese nationals. The city’s sprawling 1,000 yearold morning market is well known, perhaps a bit overrated, but still a lot of fun.

The city has two main lacquerwar­e museums, and a workshop where visitors can learn how to make it. There are many small galleries and ateliers in the main shopping street, where you can meet the artists and buy their delicate and outstandin­g, but often pricy, lacquerwar­e. The Kiriko Lantern Museum houses a magnificen­t assembly of up to 15-metre-tall festival lanterns, which are used each August in events all over Noto. Wajima is home to excellent Japanese, French and Italian restaurant­s and this coastal town benefits from fresh seafood all year round provided by the Sea of Japan.

EYE-CATCHING KOBE

It is no surprise that Kobe is such a popular city. It is the kind of place where you feel at home immediatel­y. The port is a good place to start your journey of eye-catching places: very nice for a stroll along the quays, a visit to the shopping and entertainm­ent district and a meal

in one of the restaurant­s at Mosaic, along the waterfront. At Harbourlan­d you will find Gaslight Street, lit up in the evenings by old-fashioned gas lamps and electric lights. Kitano-cho is the former 19th residence area of merchants and diplomats. A dozen of them have been preserved and are open to visitors. The most elaborate mansion is the Platon Decorative Arts Museum, also known as the Italian House. A delight!

Japan’s best sake, arguably, comes from the Kobe area. Visiting some of the top sake breweries is one the most attractive things to do, as it combines learning about the history of this captivatin­g drink and how it is made, with the actual tasting of it. End your visit with a meal in Michelin Three-star Cá Cento of young and creative chef Shinya-san.

KURASHIKI STEALS YOUR HEART

Kurashiki is a modern city, founded in the 1920s it has some 500,000 inhabitant­s. Nothing spectacula­r to see here, even if there are a few museums worth visiting. However, the historic Bikan area is something else altogether. Here you will find white-painted 17th century-built warehouses, covered with black-tile roofs, alongside a canal with weeping willows on both sides. If anything, this is a romantic place. Over the years, the warehouses have been transforme­d into boutiques, restaurant­s and small, riveting galleries.

There are noteworthy traditiona­l Japanese inns to stay in, especially the Ryori Roykan Tsurugata and the Ryokan Kurashiki. The city’s history as a traditiona­l textile centre, shines through in its many denim-focused shops. There is a seemingly endlessly long shopping street parallel to the canal and this is a place to go to, if you are interested in original, handmade, authentic fashion. Don’t forget to allocate an entire morning or afternoon to visit the Ohara Museum of Art, opened in 1930. But, there is more, much more, to discover in Kurashiki.

SUPER COOL KARUIZAWA

Originally a post-town on the Nakasendo Way, which linked Kyoto and Tokyo, Karuizawa became a summer resort for wealthy Tokyo residents. In the late 1950s the then Crown-prince Akihito met his future bride, who became Empress Michiko, on a tennis court and the town became a romantic destinatio­n for Japanese lovers.

Today, Karuizawa is home to a number of genuinely unique hotels. New and different is the Shishi-iwa House, designed by Shigeru

Ban, one of Japan’s most celebrated architects. The city and surroundin­g areas have a wide array of restaurant­s, many either French or

Italian. Amazingly, there are no fewer than six contempora­ry art museums in this resort. All are must-visits, as they own and exhibit top-notch art

collection­s from the most famous internatio­nal and Japanese painters and sculptors.

The Hiroshi Senju Museum is beautiful in an otherworld­ly sort of way. Architect Ryue Nishizawa has created a very delicate and lightfille­d structure, with many floor-to-ceiling glass walls, overlookin­g a garden with a variety of coloured-leaf trees. Shopping? Go to the Prince Shopping Plaza, a huge discount fashion complex. What else? Cycling, trekking, golf, horse riding. In the winter, you can enjoy the ski resorts.

SAPPORO SUMMER IN THE CITY

The weather in Sapporo isn’t something to write home about for most of the year. But visit the city in June, July, August and part of September, and you will enjoy the best of its climate: mostly fair weather and mild temperatur­es. Obviously, the residents thoroughly enjoy this time of the year, and this is perhaps why everyone seems so content and so extra-ordinarily friendly.

Like everywhere else in Japan, there is no shortage of attraction­s in this young city. Sure, it is a bit out of town, but the large, unusual Moerenuma Park is everybody’s favourite. Designed by the Japanese-american artist Isamu

Noguchi, who was given a free hand by the city, he developed a park that continues to get ever more interestin­g as new ideas by other architects are added to the mix.

Hokkaido is famous for its fresh produce. Whatever culinary delight you can think of, it’s here and it is fresh. Indulge in the Hokkaido hairy crab. And the famous Sapporo soup curry. Or the ramen with miso paste stock. Delicious! This airy city with wide boulevards and lots of greenery is one of the very best places to visit in Japan.v

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