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Jun-oct is wet, lush and great for photos, cooler/ peak season is Nov-feb, while Mar/apr are filthy hot Water Festival (Bon Om Tuk) is in Nov; millions of people descend on the waterfront, so watch it on TV Visa on arrival US$20, payable in US$ only (bring passport pic), or purchase online at mfaic.gov.kh for US$28 De facto currency is US$, though small change is given in the local riel. US$1 is approx. 4000R Phnom Penh Int’l Airport to town: 30 mins / US$9; Siem Reap Int’l Airport to town: 20 mins / US$7 ATMS are dotted around town. Handy ANZ ATM at 265 Sisowath Quay / Phnom Penh and Old Market / Siem Reap Cash is king, so carry plenty of small notes, though high-end establishments do accept credit cards Phnom Penh (PNH) streets are numbered grids, while landmarks are often used in Siem Reap (REP) Get around in tuk-tuks, motos, hire car or call for a taxi (see V. Useful) in PNH; cabs don’t exist in REP, while cycling is a fun way to see temples in cooler weather Foreigner = $$$. Don’t flash your cash, hang on tight to your sac and leave your LV at home Beggars and street kids are rife. Politely ignore them, as one word from you instantly transforms them into velcro, and they also know how to tell you to sod-off in several different languages Don’t touch the men in saffron robes or point your feet at them, and don’t touch kids on the head The people can be surprisingly open about their suffering under the Khmer Rouge, but be sensitive Opening hours can be flexible, best to check ahead Country code is +855, landline in PNH 023, REP 063, and mobiles usually start with 012, 015 or 017 Contact your hotel in an emergency, as special services have very limited or no English Tourist Police PNH 012 942 484, REP 012 402 424

Four phrases that will be of use...

Suor sir dai / Lee-hai : Howdy / Later Ar-kun : Thanks, awfully Ot parn ya ha! : No problem! ’kay, let’s rock...