The Phnom Penh Post

Full moon parties defy Thai issues

- Reuben Easey

FOR many ravers on the tropical oasis of Koh Phangan, the origins of the Thai island’s debauched full moon parties are as hazy as their memories of the beach bash the next morning.

Yet Sutti Kursakul, a middleaged island native with a distinctiv­e black moustache, claims he not only remembers the first moonlit party but organised it.

“I held the first full moon party in around 1988. It was a farewell to my Australian friend,” Sutti said as neon-clad tourists flowed in and out of his bar, vibing to house music.

What started as a monthly gathering for spirituall­y inclined trance fans in the 1990s has since exploded into a world-famous monument to hedonism.

Up to 30,000 people, mostly young backpacker­s, descend on Haad Rin beach each month to guzzle buckets of booze, knock back drugs and jump through hoops of fire – an increasing­ly perilous beach- side activity as the evening’s intoxicati­on takes hold.

Now electronic dance music has replaced the psy-trance beats of the ’90s, while a cottage industry of neon clothing and body paint vendors has turned the beach into a one-stop shop for the party faithful.

And they keep on coming

That is despite junta-run Thailand’s political woes and the October death of beloved King Bhumibol Adulyadej, which was followed by a monthlong “toning down” of the kingdom’s wild nightlife.

Through a decade of military coups and curfews, Thailand’s buoyant tourist industry has kept the economy afloat.

Thailand has already welcomed more than a record 30 million tourists in 2016.

They are expected to rake in more than $68.5 billion, a figure that will represent 17 percent of the economy.

Can’t stop the rave

Over the years the full moon party has often been cast as a depraved, crime-ridden drug fest where foreigners trash their idyllic surroundin­gs and take excessive risks.

“The Western media is so negative,” said Sharon Kahatai, an Israeli hostel owner who made the island his home nearly a decade ago.

“I think the full moon [party] is an amazing project. I don’t know if there are other projects like that which bring young people, 18 to 22, from all around the world to be together.”

Some old-school ravers say the notoriety and commercial­ism are changing the event for the worse. But Sutti insists the spirit is the same.

“Nothing has changed about the full moon party – just more people,” he said, stressing how the revellers bring crucial cash into the pockets of locals.

Thai tourism authoritie­s want to lure wealthier visitors to the kingdom.

But hedonistic fixtures of Thailand’s nightlife such as the full moon party appear safe.

Cyclical crackdowns on Thailand’s freewheeli­ng party scene never seem to stick and the beach rave shows no signs of slowing down.

“It’s obviously popular with many people,” said Chattan Kunjara Na Ayudhya, the public relations director of Tourism Authority of Thailand.

He said budget travellers still have an important role to play, despite efforts to develop Thailand as a luxury travel destinatio­n.

While backpacker­s may be short on cash, they have pull especially online.

“In this world of social media, they see a lot, they share what they see, and we’re happy,” he told AFP.

 ?? LILLIAN SUWANRUMPH­A/AF ?? This picture taken on December 14 shows a reveller walking through a hoop of fire during a Full Moon Party on the island of Ko Phangan.
LILLIAN SUWANRUMPH­A/AF This picture taken on December 14 shows a reveller walking through a hoop of fire during a Full Moon Party on the island of Ko Phangan.

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