FIND­ING PEACE IN THE AE­O­LIANs

Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia - - DEALS - — H.K.

The is­lands of Filicudi and Salina of­fer un­par­al­leled tran­quil­ity—as does Strom­boli, when you're not up on its fa­mous vol­cano. Be­cause the Ae­o­lians are fairly dif­fi­cult to get to, you may wish to make your visit there part of a broader Si­cily or south­ern Italy itin­er­ary. GET­TING THERE

Fly in to Palermo Air­port (PMO) or Cata­nia-Fon­ta­narossa Air­port (CTA), con­nect­ing through Rome or an­other ma­jor Euro­pean hub. Lib­erty Lines (eng.lib­erty­lines.it) op­er­ates fer­ries to all seven in­hab­ited Ae­o­lian Is­lands from Palermo and Malazzo, in north­east­ern Si­cily. To get to Malazzo from Cata­nia, about two hours away, pre­book a car with Adige (au­toserviziadige.it). Lib­erty Lines also op­er­ates in­ter­is­land ferry ser­vice. In high sea­son (June through late Au­gust), be sure to book ferry tick­ets on­line in ad­vance, since the boats fill up. Ser­vice can be de­layed or can­celed be­cause of rough weather or a strike.

Filicudi

Ho­tel La Canna (la­can­na­ho­tel.it; dou­bles from €142), the is­land's best place to stay, has a good restau­rant and a pool. Ask the front desk to ar­range an ex­cur­sion into the wa­ters around Filicudi with a lo­cal; don't miss La Canna rock (trips from €29), a basalt tower ris­ing from the sea that is said to pos­sess mag­i­cal pow­ers. Villa La Rosa (vil­lalarosa.it; mains €7–€29), up the path from the ho­tel, fea­tures chef Ade­laide Rando's lasagna with wild fen­nel and an oval-shaped bar with a pink mar­ble top that looks like it be­longs in a Wes An­der­son film.

Salina

I loved the quiet of Capo­faro Lo­canda & Mal­va­sia (capo­faro.it; dou­bles from €527), a con­verted fish­ing vil­lage with the sea on one side and vine­yards on the other. The ho­tel can or­ga­nize tours of the other is­lands aboard a Hat­teras yacht. Its restau­rant (mains €31–€42) show­cases pro­duce from its gar­dens and a strong com­mit­ment to bread mak­ing. Da Al­fredo (11 Via Vit­to­ria Al­fieri; mains €14–€20) serves Salina's most pop­u­lar dish, pane cun­zato, a round of grilled bread piled with salad-like top­pings. Signum (ho­tel­signum.it; mains €43), housed in a fine Salina ho­tel of the same name, is the is­land's sole Miche­lin-starred restau­rant.

Strom­boli

Il Gab­biano Re­lais (il­gab­bianos­trom­boli.it; dou­bles from €287) has 11 apart­mentstyle rooms, gro­cery de­liv­ery, and a shaded pool. At Trat­to­ria Ai Gechi (12 Via Salina; mains €17– €36), dishes like pasta with smoked tuna, arugula and cherry to­ma­toes are as mem­o­rable as the col­or­ful owner, An­tonino Zac­cone. Beach time on the black sands of Spi­ag­gia Lunga is mag­i­cal and manda­tory. You can hike most of the way up the vol­cano your­self, but a guide is re­quired to sum­mit. Mag­ma­trek (mag­ma­trek.it; tours from €40) leads group hikes and can ar­range pri­vate tours. Be­fore leav­ing Strom­boli, or­der all the deep-dish pizza you can carry from Pan­i­fi­cio La Pag­notta (Via Soldato Francesco Na­toli)—it's the per­fect lunch for the hy­dro­foil back to Si­cily.

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