SHIBUYATEI

Air Canada enRoute - - SPECTATOR / COUP D’ OEI L -

WHAT’S COOK­ING

Self-taught chef (and trained ar­chi­tect) Takeo Sato dishes out his Tokyo-style ra­men from a 14-seat eatery in the cor­ner suite of the Rich­mond Auto Wash, in an MSG-free chick­en­leg broth made from scratch each morn­ing.

LOOK FOR

The sign ad­ver­tis­ing “lar­men,” a com­mon translit­er­a­tion of ra­men. Sato uses it to dis­tin­guish his from oth­ers served around town.

OR­DER

Shoyu charsyu­men, wheat noo­dles with sliced bar­be­cued pork shoul­der on top, and ask for the house hot sauce. Slurp them up with a side of crispy gy­oza filled with scal­lops im­ported from Hokkaido, Ja­pan.

RA­MEN EM­PIRE

Sato serves just 20 bowls at lunch and 20 bowls at sup­per, so no noodling around.

GO

Dur­ing the week, as soon as it opens for lunch (11:30 a.m.) or din­ner (5 p.m.), to make sure you get one of the few bowls of broth. Closed on Wed­nes­days.

THIS PAGE From Tokyo with love: Chef Takeo Sato spends six hours on each batch of his del­i­cate ra­men broth. OP­PO­SITE PAGE Full steam ahead: Even though it’s a two-man op­er­a­tion, or­ders get to the ta­ble in min­utes at Shibuyatei. OPEN­ING PAGE Hainanese...

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