SZECHUAN DE­LI­CIOUS RESTAU­RANT

Air Canada enRoute - - SPECTATOR / COUP D’ OEI L -

WHAT’S COOK­ING

Head to the Time Square strip mall for some of Rich­mond’s spici­est food: The lib­eral use of Szechuan pep­per­corns gives most dishes a mouth-numb­ing heat, dubbed ma la in Man­darin.

LOOK FOR

Pres­tige Jew­ellery’s big blue re­volv­ing sign.

OR­DER

Sliced fish poached with chili oil, dried chilies and pep­per; it comes to the ta­ble still bub­bling. The coura­geous (read: fool­hardy) should try the dan dan noo­dles, but be­ware – the dish goes from mild to wild when you mix the noo­dles into the spicy broth. Have a glass of soy milk at the ready.

DUMPLING DEVEL­OP­MENT

This space serves as an in­cu­ba­tor for many of Rich­mond’s bud­ding Chi­nese restau­rants, hence the dumpling sta­tion by the front win­dows, where chefs test the brothy wa­ters and find their foot­ing in the lo­cal culi­nary com­mu­nity.

GO

Any time ex­cept from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m., when the place re­groups be­tween ser­vices. Ar­rive early for din­ner: A line starts form­ing as soon as they re­open. Closed on Tues­days.

SZECHUAN DE­LI­CIOUS R ESTAURANT 6610 N O. 3 R D. , 604 - 276 -1780

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada

© PressReader. All rights reserved.