Air Canada enRoute - - MONTRÉAL -

IT’S RARE TO FIND A BAR THAT ART­FULLY TRAN­SI­TIONS FROM day­time hang­out to night­time hot spot, but Paris Paris is just such a place. It helps that the light along the busy west-end street tracks per­fectly, and that a jun­gle’s worth of plant life creeps and crawls along the win­dow ledge and from the rafters, keep­ing things bright and cheer­ful in the af­ter­noon and al­lur­ingly lush when dark­ness falls. This wine bar is a lo­cal in the truest sense: I meet a friend for lunch and she and her one-year-old son are wel­comed with lit­eral open arms – our server takes him for a spin around the room while we peruse the menu. I’m not ready to com­mit to a fully boozy sit­u­a­tion at noon, but Paris Paris has that cov­ered with the Kal­imotxo, a red wine/Mex­i­can Coke combo that dis­patches a shot of caf­feine and a sugar up­per with the al­co­hol downer. It’s also, I can at­test, a great hang­over cure. Hap­pily re­set, I order a clemen­tine-scented dry rosé from the Ni­a­gara re­gion, which bal­ances a plate of gar­licky egg­plant dip, as do slices of the tangy house­made sour­dough bread. The wine list is full of funky or­ganic, bio­dy­namic and nat­u­ral wines, mostly from small fam­ily pro­duc­ers. The open kitchen in the back is busy with poached salmon with green god­dess dress­ing and piri piri-style chicken – sim­ple but beau­ti­fully as­sem­bled plates that leave me feel­ing as light and airy as the place it­self.

BE­LOW, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Cheers to hav­ing a Span­ish rosado in one hand and a Ger­man Müller-Thur­gau in the other; glass-and-iron doors lead to Paris Paris’ back room and open kitchen; egg­plant with flat bread, lamb ribs with hot sauce and green salad with red oak leaves.

CI-DESSOUS,DEGAUCHEÀDROITE Levons notre verre à ce di­vin combo : un rosé es­pag­nol dans une main et un müller-thur­gau alle­mand dans l’autre ; ces portes en verre et en fer mè­nent à l’ar­rière du Paris Paris et à sa cui­sine ou­verte ; au­bergine et pain plat, côtes d’ag­neau et sauce pi­quante, salade verte avec feuilles de chêne rouge.

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