IT’S RARE TO FIND A BAR THAT ARTFULLY TRANSITIONS FROM daytime hangout to nighttime hot spot, but Paris Paris is just such a place. It helps that the light along the busy west-end street tracks perfectly, and that a jungle’s worth of plant life creeps and crawls along the window ledge and from the rafters, keeping things bright and cheerful in the afternoon and alluringly lush when darkness falls. This wine bar is a local in the truest sense: I meet a friend for lunch and she and her one-year-old son are welcomed with literal open arms – our server takes him for a spin around the room while we peruse the menu. I’m not ready to commit to a fully boozy situation at noon, but Paris Paris has that covered with the Kalimotxo, a red wine/Mexican Coke combo that dispatches a shot of caffeine and a sugar upper with the alcohol downer. It’s also, I can attest, a great hangover cure. Happily reset, I order a clementine-scented dry rosé from the Niagara region, which balances a plate of garlicky eggplant dip, as do slices of the tangy housemade sourdough bread. The wine list is full of funky organic, biodynamic and natural wines, mostly from small family producers. The open kitchen in the back is busy with poached salmon with green goddess dressing and piri piri-style chicken – simple but beautifully assembled plates that leave me feeling as light and airy as the place itself.
BELOW, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Cheers to having a Spanish rosado in one hand and a German Müller-Thurgau in the other; glass-and-iron doors lead to Paris Paris’ back room and open kitchen; eggplant with flat bread, lamb ribs with hot sauce and green salad with red oak leaves.
CI-DESSOUS,DEGAUCHEÀDROITE Levons notre verre à ce divin combo : un rosé espagnol dans une main et un müller-thurgau allemand dans l’autre ; ces portes en verre et en fer mènent à l’arrière du Paris Paris et à sa cuisine ouverte ; aubergine et pain plat, côtes d’agneau et sauce piquante, salade verte avec feuilles de chêne rouge.