Throw­back of the year Aloette’s sun­dae

Air Canada enRoute - - AMERICAN EXPRESS -

This finely tuned dessert – which might in­clude fresh fruit, crunchy feuil­letine and brown-but­ter cake – is a retro tour de force.

Be­hind the bar, one of the fastest, sharpest shak­ers in the city is giv­ing a clinic, while Tommy Ste­wart comes on the stereo, lay­ing down a funky beat with “Get Off Your Seats.” We’d rather not – we’re deep into the wedge salad that glam­our­izes ice­berg let­tuce with thin slices of av­o­cado and a shower of crunchy wild rice, pump­kin­seeds and soy­beans.

There’s lamb roast, crispy and fatty, dot­ted with seared shishito pep­per and a bright pars­ley-and-shal­lot chimichurri. There are torched scal­lops and fluffy puréed peas with wasabi, which blan­kets our tongue with creamy com­fort, then gooses it with heat. For dessert, it’s the pineap­ple sun­dae all the way, with brown but­ter cake, rum and a feuil­letine crunch. Ev­ery great city needs a place where a star chef takes a work­ing hol­i­day and cooks the food he or she re­ally wants to eat. For Toronto, Aloette is it.

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