Throwback of the year Aloette’s sundae
This finely tuned dessert – which might include fresh fruit, crunchy feuilletine and brown-butter cake – is a retro tour de force.
Behind the bar, one of the fastest, sharpest shakers in the city is giving a clinic, while Tommy Stewart comes on the stereo, laying down a funky beat with “Get Off Your Seats.” We’d rather not – we’re deep into the wedge salad that glamourizes iceberg lettuce with thin slices of avocado and a shower of crunchy wild rice, pumpkinseeds and soybeans.
There’s lamb roast, crispy and fatty, dotted with seared shishito pepper and a bright parsley-and-shallot chimichurri. There are torched scallops and fluffy puréed peas with wasabi, which blankets our tongue with creamy comfort, then gooses it with heat. For dessert, it’s the pineapple sundae all the way, with brown butter cake, rum and a feuilletine crunch. Every great city needs a place where a star chef takes a working holiday and cooks the food he or she really wants to eat. For Toronto, Aloette is it.