Ter­roir Parisien and Kishoku, Hong Kong

Business Traveler (USA) - - CONTENTS - Jeremy Tredinnick

Parisian su­per-chef Yan­nick Al­léno opened his first Hong Kong es­tab­lish­ment in Au­gust 2017. The cheer­ful bistro-style eatery is sur­pris­ingly af­ford­able given its high-end lo­ca­tion in Cen­tral’s Prince’s Build­ing. There’s an open kitchen, is­land bar and two seat­ing ar­eas with booths and ta­bles. Stylish black-and-white pho­tos line the walls, while stain­less-steel ta­bles and pa­per ta­ble mats re­minded me of my fa­vorite café-bistros in Paris’s Mont­martre district.

Starters in­clude ob­vi­ous sta­ples like onion soup and oven roasted Camem­bert along­side some more in­trigu­ing choices. We opted for

Caviar de lentilles et bli­nis (“Bel­uga” lentils with nut­meg crème fraîche and warm bli­nis; HK$88/$11 US) and Bouchées de champignons de Paris aux es­car­gots (snails baked in a Paris mush­room cap with pars­ley and gar­lic but­ter; HK$158/$20 US). The fla­vors were smooth and del­i­cate, the snails fan­tas­tic, the lentils per­haps a lit­tle bland, need­ing slightly more nut­meg. From 12 main dishes, we picked

“Pi­lafaela” de noix de co­quille Saint-Jac­ques (sea scal­lops cooked over sim­mered rice pi­laf in an aro­matic broth; HK$288/$37 US) and

Navarin print­anier d’ag­neau (lamb shoul­der ragu with sea­sonal veg­eta­bles; HK$348/$45 US). The scal­lops were cooked to per­fec­tion but it was the meati­ness of the pi­laf rice – cooked in a chicken broth – that most im­pressed me. The lamb, mean­while, was smoth­ered in fresh car­rots, green beans and peas, flanked by tasty new pota­toes and swim­ming in a de­li­cious sauce – su­perb, hearty fare.

The sig­na­ture dessert, Saint-Honoré (caramelized choux pas­try, kirsch cus­tard and Chan­tilly cream; HK$88/$11 US) was sin­fully good, es­pe­cially with its creamy com­bi­na­tions of tex­ture.

The wine list is ex­clu­sively French; we tried a crispy sau­vi­gnon blanc and an ex­cel­lent mer­lot-caber­net franc blend.

VER­DICT A great place that largely suc­ceeds in repli­cat­ing a typ­i­cal Parisian bistro. The hearty French fare is cooked very well, pre­sented nicely and very good value. A fun place for an en­joy­able meal in the heart of Hong Kong.

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