Le Relais Plaza by Jean Imbert
Inspired by the first-class dining room of the SS Normandie, one of the grandest ocean liners of its day, Le Relais Plaza opened in Paris’ Hôtel Plaza Athénée in 1936. Designed in high art deco style by Constant Lefranc, this classic brasserie became a Parisian institution as fashion designers and artists of every decade flocked to this ultimate Avenue Montaigne address. Today, after a few renovations, Le Relais Plaza remains one of the city’s most beautiful rooms, with its original Diane Chasseresse fresco showcased alongside the Lalique chandelier and zodiac stained glass.
Last year, Jean Imbert—a 40-year-old Top Chef France winner and buzz-worthy talent with half a million followers—took over the kitchen, stepping into the shoes of France’s most well-known and awarded cuisinier, Alain Ducasse. A fan and friend of Ducasse’s and a skeptic of younger chefs who gain fame on TV shows and social media, I nevertheless agreed to join a foodie friend for dinner. But from the moment I sat down, I felt an embracing sensation of comfort.
As the menu pays tribute to Imbert’s late grandmother Mamie, whom he loved very much, we felt compelled to share the Terrine de Ma Grand-Mère. A rustic mix of chopped rabbit and pork served in its own terrine and accompanied by crusty bread, it took me back to Lyon. I wondered what Langoustine, Mayonnaise & Thermidor would be like, and I wasn’t disappointed: Four sweet, just poached unshelled prawns were served with ample dollops of freshly made mayonnaise; the heads, filled with the aromas of the sea, were tamed by the Thermidor gratin. Triumphantly crisp and tender grilled sweetbreads, served with freshly picked morels and new potatoes, happily paired with a spritz of yellow wine. My friend’s perfectly cooked roasted turbot grenobloise demonstrated impeccable simplicity, while I left praising the beef fillet with foie gras lobules encased in brioche. Minute Floating Island for two is an elevated version with crunchy bites of toasted almonds, hazelnuts and pistachios and drizzled with a darker, caramel-like dulce de leche. Imbert has done his grandmother proud: The cuisine of Mamie and Jean reigns at the Plaza Athénée. dorchestercollection.com