Dirty French
When you arrive at Dirty French—a Continental steak house in Miami’s Brickell business district—you must first visit the Jungle Bar, a lush preamble. Bathed in the light of a Venetian-style chandelier, guests lounge on channel-tufted banquettes at green tables or on fringed stools at the bar, where they enjoy cocktails served by pink-tuxedoed bartenders.
Once patrons unwind, they proceed through a lantern-lit corridor lined with ebonized mashrabiya paneling to one of the main dining rooms. My favorite is a burnt-orange velvet-upholstered room with zebra-patterned dining chairs (reminiscent of the mid-century Manhattan nightclub El Morocco) and de Sede-inspired banquettes surrounding tables dimly lit with art deco silk and brass lamps. Just above, large groups of contemporary silk cocoon pendants illuminate a goldleaf ceiling, while ’80s disco keeps the energy and sound levels at high volume.
Hors d’oeuvres can be decadent, such as the giant oysters bourguignon, a splendid recipe that dresses freshly shucked oysters with butter, garlic and parsley before grilling to a light, crusty finish. The mille-feuille of trumpet mushroom has been one of Dirty French’s most famous dishes since the original location opened in New York in 2014. Layers of thinly sliced king trumpet stems are folded again and again like puff pastry, then roasted in butter and served over a pool of green curry cream, an ode to Thailand. As much as duck à l’orange attracted me, the ras el hanout spice deterred me from ordering, and I also wanted to share the unforgettable chicken and crepes for two I had on a previous visit. I am in love with this preparation, a chicken tour de force served in two parts. The first is the breast, sliced and served in a skillet over a creamy light mustard butter sauce scented with herbs. The dark meat has been marinated in soy, lemongrass, ginger and lime, then cooked confit-style in chicken fat and grilled to caramelized deliciousness. A finale of powdered-sugar-dusted beignets with chicory caramel sauce leaves guests happily dreaming of New Orleans. dirtyfrench.com