Ingredients take centre stage at Anew
rants?), painted whatever needed to be painted, brought in new furniture and decorations, refurbished the kitchen and worked out the menu.
The menu was perhaps the easiest part, seeing as how they do it from scratch every day. Anew Table’s concept is a prix fixe dinner menu of three courses for $45 or five courses for $65. All dishes are created daily from the best ingredients they can source.
Barton has searched out small, local producers to provide him with whole lambs and pigs and such, so when a course says simply “lamb,” it will be the cut of the moment. On a recent evening, the lamb was leg served with more local ingredients — aubergine, courgette, mint and barley — with the addition of raisins.
Also available that night was a salmon dish with potato, fennel, orange, hazelnuts and cauliflower and a pork option with cannelloni, corn, gnocchi and kale.
Barton builds enough flexibility into his menus to satisfy anyone coming through the door. Want just one course? No problem. Want to share a three-course meal? Sure. Want to go all out with seven courses? Anew is happy to accommodate.
They’ll also pair your meal with wines if you’d like — an extra $25 for the three-course meal, $35 for the five-course.
Barton has been wanting to do this kind of restaurant for a while. After graduating from SAIT in 2006, the native Calgarian worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris, notably La Table du Lancaster with Michel Troisgros, and Astrance with Pascal Barbot (No. 38 on San Pellegrino’s list of the world’s best restaurants). Returning to Calgary, he rose to chef de cuisine at Kensington Riverside Inn (KRI) before opening Anew.
KRI’s executive chef Duncan Ly describes Barton as an “extremely talented” and “focused” chef who produces food of superb quality. So, at Anew Table, the ingredients will take centre stage, the menu will be absolutely seasonal and the preparation will be strongly French influenced.
The 40-seat Anew is now open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, but once they get their legs under them, they’ll roll out a lunch menu.
Meanwhile Paris-born Michel Nop has taken over the kitchen at KRI. Nop was trained in the French classics in Paris and worked under chef Dominique Moussu at Teatro and then Cassis Bistro. Before joining the team at KRI, he was sous chef at Catch.
A young Calgary chef won a major award at the 38th Concours International des Jeunes Chefs Rotisseurs Competition held recently in Durban, South Africa.
Rupert Garcia, chef de partie at the Calgary Golf and Country Club, brought home the silver medal after competing against 19 other fine young chefs from around the world.
Each chef was given a black box of ingredients and four hours in which to prepare a three-course meal. The compulsory ingredients were a whole cape salmon, a whole chicken, an ostrich fillet, butternut squash, avocado, to- mato and pawpaw. (We don’t see pawpaws much in Calgary. It’s a mango-shaped fruit native to the American southeast.) The chefs supplemented the required ingredients with a pantry of items.
Garcia served poached, chilled salmon sided with a salad of pawpaw, mussels, onions, tomato ice, mussel dressing and crisp salmon skin. His main course was oven-roasted ostrich served with pulled chicken, rosti potato, butternut squash puree, chicken reduction, baby corn and zucchini. Dessert was avocado cremeux with white and dark Valhrona chocolate, avocado mousse, blueberry salsa and caramel sauce.
Eligible chefs were all under age 27 and had each won competitions in their own countries, advancing them to the Durban event. Gold went to Peter Lex of Germany.
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At Anew Table restaurant, owner and chef Chris Barton offers patrons a prix fixe dinner menu. All dishes are created daily from the best ingredients he can source.