In­gre­di­ents take cen­tre stage at Anew

Calgary Herald - Calgary Herald New Condos - - Weekend Life -

rants?), painted what­ever needed to be painted, brought in new fur­ni­ture and dec­o­ra­tions, re­fur­bished the kitchen and worked out the menu.

The menu was per­haps the eas­i­est part, see­ing as how they do it from scratch ev­ery day. Anew Ta­ble’s con­cept is a prix fixe din­ner menu of three cour­ses for $45 or five cour­ses for $65. All dishes are cre­ated daily from the best in­gre­di­ents they can source.

Bar­ton has searched out small, lo­cal pro­duc­ers to pro­vide him with whole lambs and pigs and such, so when a course says sim­ply “lamb,” it will be the cut of the mo­ment. On a re­cent evening, the lamb was leg served with more lo­cal in­gre­di­ents — aubergine, cour­gette, mint and bar­ley — with the ad­di­tion of raisins.

Also avail­able that night was a sal­mon dish with potato, fen­nel, orange, hazel­nuts and cauliflowe­r and a pork op­tion with can­nel­loni, corn, gnoc­chi and kale.

Bar­ton builds enough flex­i­bil­ity into his menus to sat­isfy any­one com­ing through the door. Want just one course? No prob­lem. Want to share a three-course meal? Sure. Want to go all out with seven cour­ses? Anew is happy to ac­com­mo­date.

They’ll also pair your meal with wines if you’d like — an ex­tra $25 for the three-course meal, $35 for the five-course.

Bar­ton has been want­ing to do this kind of restau­rant for a while. After grad­u­at­ing from SAIT in 2006, the na­tive Cal­gar­ian worked in Miche­lin-starred restau­rants in Paris, no­tably La Ta­ble du Lan­caster with Michel Trois­gros, and As­trance with Pas­cal Bar­bot (No. 38 on San Pel­le­grino’s list of the world’s best restau­rants). Re­turn­ing to Cal­gary, he rose to chef de cui­sine at Kens­ing­ton River­side Inn (KRI) be­fore open­ing Anew.

KRI’s ex­ec­u­tive chef Dun­can Ly de­scribes Bar­ton as an “ex­tremely tal­ented” and “fo­cused” chef who pro­duces food of su­perb qual­ity. So, at Anew Ta­ble, the in­gre­di­ents will take cen­tre stage, the menu will be ab­so­lutely sea­sonal and the prepa­ra­tion will be strongly French in­flu­enced.

The 40-seat Anew is now open for din­ner Tues­day through Satur­day, but once they get their legs un­der them, they’ll roll out a lunch menu.

Mean­while Paris-born Michel Nop has taken over the kitchen at KRI. Nop was trained in the French clas­sics in Paris and worked un­der chef Do­minique Moussu at Teatro and then Cas­sis Bistro. Be­fore join­ing the team at KRI, he was sous chef at Catch.

A young Cal­gary chef won a ma­jor award at the 38th Con­cours In­ter­na­tional des Je­unes Chefs Ro­tis­seurs Com­pe­ti­tion held re­cently in Dur­ban, South Africa.

Ru­pert Gar­cia, chef de par­tie at the Cal­gary Golf and Coun­try Club, brought home the sil­ver medal after com­pet­ing against 19 other fine young chefs from around the world.

Each chef was given a black box of in­gre­di­ents and four hours in which to pre­pare a three-course meal. The com­pul­sory in­gre­di­ents were a whole cape sal­mon, a whole chicken, an os­trich fil­let, but­ter­nut squash, av­o­cado, to- mato and paw­paw. (We don’t see paw­paws much in Cal­gary. It’s a mango-shaped fruit na­tive to the Amer­i­can south­east.) The chefs sup­ple­mented the re­quired in­gre­di­ents with a pantry of items.

Gar­cia served poached, chilled sal­mon sided with a salad of paw­paw, mus­sels, onions, tomato ice, mus­sel dress­ing and crisp sal­mon skin. His main course was oven-roasted os­trich served with pulled chicken, rosti potato, but­ter­nut squash puree, chicken re­duc­tion, baby corn and zuc­chini. Dessert was av­o­cado cre­meux with white and dark Valhrona choco­late, av­o­cado mousse, blue­berry salsa and caramel sauce.

El­i­gi­ble chefs were all un­der age 27 and had each won com­pe­ti­tions in their own coun­tries, ad­vanc­ing them to the Dur­ban event. Gold went to Peter Lex of Ger­many.

RESTAU­RANT GUIDE TO

AND BEYOND IS AVAIL-

Crys­tal Schick/Cal­gary Her­ald

At Anew Ta­ble restau­rant, owner and chef Chris Bar­ton of­fers pa­trons a prix fixe din­ner menu. All dishes are cre­ated daily from the best in­gre­di­ents he can source.

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