Tao of surfing
Learning some life lessons while riding the waves
They say that Costa Ricans are the happiest people on Earth. Whether it’s the World Database of Happiness or the Happy Planet Index, Costa Rica regularly comes out on top in terms of selfsatisfaction about life. No surprise, given Costa Rica’s “pura vida” lifestyle.
Curious about this pure life, I ventured to the town of Tamarindo, to seek some higher learning at surf school.
After a refresher lesson with a gentle instructor on Day 1, I was paired the next day with instructor Percy Lawrence. He had an infectious smile and spirit; I knew my surf education was about to change.
As we walked out to the ocean, I was keen to jump on the board, but Percy kept me on the beach, lying on the board and paddling into the sand, a sure sign of a novice surfer.
“Paddle, paddle,” Percy instructed. “You have to practise, and build your muscle memory.”
I finally passed the “paddle the sand” test and stood up, but Percy continued to keep me from the water, telling me to watch the waves.
He asked, “How long did it take for those waves to get here?” Still in ultra-analytic city mode, I did some quick calculations in my head, desperately trying to recall late-night news explanations of how long it takes a tsunami to travel across the Pacific.
“Umm, three weeks?” I said, tentative in my response, but confident there was a right or wrong answer.
“Maybe,” Percy said slowly, “Maybe less, maybe more. But it doesn’t matter anymore. What matters is that the wave has travelled all the way here, and now, you have the privilege of riding it.”
After briefly rolling my eyes at his philosophical rhetoric, I had a reality check. Not everything had to be right or wrong here. In that moment, I left my city mentality behind in favour of a pura vida attitude.
Over the next several days, Percy alternately encouraged, yelled, praised and criticized.
I limped out of the water at the end of each day, but every morning returned for more. Beyond gaining confidence on the board, I couldn’t help but draw some parallels between surfing and life. Look ahead, don’t look
down Too often, we find ourselves in a hunched position, looking down — at our desks, holding snow shovels or over a keyboard. In surfing, you have to keep your eyes up, and trust that your feet will land on the board where they need to be. On the water and in life, the waves will keep coming, whether you ride them or not. But life’s more fun if you raise your head and choose to ride the waves.
Keep things simple
Most mornings at surf camp, I headed to the beach certain that I was forgetting to bring something.
Accustomed to the abundance of gear associated with most Canadian winter sports, it didn’t seem right to head out the door barefoot, with just a board tucked awkwardly under my arm.
Keep life simple — look at everything around you, and understand the difference between what it is you want and what you really need.
Paddle, paddle
On the third day, I seemed to be doing everything right, but just as I stood up, the wave would get in front of me, and I would lose momentum and sink into the water.
“Paddle, paddle!” I could hear Percy cry. After a few missed attempts, he swam over to me, sensing I was frustrated. “Listen,” he said.
“Why do you stop paddling when the wave starts to push you? That’s when you need to give two really hard paddles. Why do all that work and then just stop?”
He was right. Never stop at 90 per cent. The last 10 per cent is the hardest work, but often provides the best rewards.
Change up your supporting cast
Surfing is as much about the people around you as it is about the waves. In everyday life, we have lead actors in our lives, but we also have a huge set of supporting actors. Some enter our lives for a scene or two; some become part of our lifelong cast. This is particularly true when travelling. Let’s face it, camaraderie is inevitable when you’re paddling side by side, a wave is about to break on top of you and you have a splitsecond decision to go over, under or through. Getting to the other side of that wave together often turns a stranger into a friend.
Change up your supporting cast on a regular basis, and you’ll gain a broader perspective on life.
On my last day surfing, I was out practising on my own and caught a great wave. As I gazed to shore, I soon realized I was going to run down Percy, who was coaching his next disciple in the whitewash. As I approached, I almost jumped off my board to avoid him, but when he saw me, his signature grin reappeared. ‘Yeaaah!” he shouted, moving out of the way and enthusiastically waving me through. “Pura vida, man.”
Back at my landlocked desk, 41 degrees latitude north of Costa Rica, I find that I think about waves at some point every day. How they sound, and how they curl. How, from the water, I saw the early morning sun peek over the hills and then watched that same golden globe sink into the sea at the end of the afternoon. I think about how next time, I’ll get on my feet faster and paddle harder. And during the ebb and flow of daily life, I hope my own tide takes me back to the surf soon.