Synthetic whale vomit created for perfumes

Whale vomit, a key ingredient in perfume, could be left out at sea as researchers have isolated a tree compound that could replace the odd ingredient.

The discovery made by researchers at the University of British Columbia identified a gene in balsam fir trees that could eliminate the need for ambergris — a strong perfume fixative created from a regurgitated mixture of seashells, fish bones and a sticky inner-stomach substance that turns into a rocklike object once it reacts with sea water.

Joerg Bohlmann, a professor at UBC and lead researcher at the school’s Michael Smith laboratories, said enzymes found in the resin of the tree bark, once isolated, were used to create a synthetic compound that replaces ambergris.

“We are now able to isolate the one biocatalyst that can create the compound without need to harvest from a natural source,” said Bohlmann. “This creation of the compound in a lab would ensure that the animal is never hunted if the product can- not be found naturally and as well would protect the balsam fir from extinction.”

The distinctly scented ambergris — bearing a musky, sweet earthy aroma — clings to fabrics and is added to high-end perfumes to help the scent last longer on skin.

Darren Praznik, CEO and president of the Canadian Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association, says the creation of synthetic compounds is vital in producing environmentally sound products.

“With the difficulty in obtaining compounds in volumes, it is easy to put a group of animals or plants in danger,” said Praznik.

Bohlmann said although ambergris is collected by hand along the shores of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, its use in perfume is controversial.

“This new compound would eliminate the fear of source depletion that is only slowly regenerated,” said Bohlmann. “Without fear of losing the plant life, plant-based products could eliminate animal-based products entirely.”

The research will be published Friday in the Journal of Biological Chemistry.