BOSTON: HISTORIC, HIP DESTINATION
Massachusetts capital is also rich in history
Dining
Our foodie relatives guided us to some of the best eateries in the city.
Flour Bakery + Cafe (1595 Washington St., 617-2674300, Boston). Their Boston cream pie is fabulous.
Massimino’s Cucina Italiana (207 Endicott St., 617523-5959, Boston) served up one of the best seafood meals of our trip. Our hosts have been regulars at this family-run Italian restaurant for more than 20 years.
For many western Canadians, Boston isn’t a top-of-mind destination. That’s understandable, as it’s a long way over there. But with a family function to attend and our Boston relatives volunteering as tour guides, we jumped at the chance for a visit.
“European visitors love Boston because it reminds them of Europe,” says Stephan, a concierge at the Hyatt Regency in downtown Boston. Boston is a walkable old city that charms visitors with its rich history, superb dining and outstanding shopping.
With more than 50 colleges and universities in the metro area, the city feels young, hip and cosmopolitan. And during our many hours of exploring the city on foot, we found Boston pleasingly clean and safe.
Here’s a selection of must-see attractions we enjoyed:
The Paul Revere House (19 North Square), in the city’s North End.
Old North Church (alias Christ Church in the City of Boston, 193-5 Salem St.) Built in 1723, this is where the famous “One if by land, and two if by sea” signal was said to have been sent to warn the American militia of the impending attack by British forces.
Boston Common, dating from 1634, is America’s first public park.
Faneuil Hall, Faneuil Hall Marketplace and Quincy Market. Faneuil Hall has been a meeting hall since 1742 and is part of the Boston National Historic Park. Park Rangers provide free interpretive services on the building’s historical significance in America’s fight for independence from Britain. The Faneuil Hall Marketplace (indoors) and adjoining Quincy Market are crammed with local eateries and retail outlets.
Little Italy. This is Boston’s lively Italian district in the North End. Stop at a bakery and buy a cannoli, an exquisite fried pastry tube filled with sweet ricotta cheese. In summer, various Italian Feasts and Processions (the Fisherman’s Feast of the Madonna, an annual event since 1910 was happening during our visit) are held in North End neighbourhoods. The streets are closed to motor vehicles and the streets teem with people and food vendors.
New England Aquarium (1 Central Wharf, 617-9735206, Boston. Admission: $15.95-$22.95 depending on age; children under 3 get in for free.) At the heart of the aquarium is the Giant Ocean Tank. In this tropical display, Myrtle the green sea turtle is the star, along with sharks, barracuda, stingrays and moray eels. Best of all, the viewing ramp spirals around the tank so visitors can view the display at all heights of the tank.
Boston Harborwalk. Some 62 kilometres of public access winds around the city’s waterfront, and it’s easily accessible from downtown.
The Seafood Diablo special (includes half a lobster, swordfish, calamari, shrimp, squid, mussels and clams on a bed of spaghetti) is more than plenty for two. My order of shrimp and the scallops on tagliatelle (thick cut ribbon noodle) had me delirious. These were the best scallops ever — sweet and large in a creamy tomato sauce. A second visit earns big thumbs up for the braised veal osso bucco and rack of lamb.
Legal Sea Food (43 Boylston St, Chestnut Hill Shopping Center, Newton, Mass., 617-277-7300; various locations.) For many Bostonians, “Legal’s” is the seafood restaurant of choice. Famous for their clam chowder, our server says it has been served at every Presidential Inauguration since 1981. We weren’t disappointed, and the crab cakes are outstanding too.
Surrounding
area
Plymouth: Just 65 kilometres south of Boston, Plymouth Rock is where the Puritans landed in 1620. Visit the actual Plymouth Rock, which is enshrined in a neoclassical granite portico erected in 1920 to celebrate the 300th anniversary of the landing, and wander around the Mayflower II replica ship docked nearby.
Cape Cod: “The Cape” is about an hour’s drive from Boston. The Cape’s numerous towns were settled in the 1600s. We used Mashpee (named after the Mashpee Indians) as a base for day trips. Provincetown at the tip of the Cape is where the Puritans first landed, but unable to find fresh water, they moved on to Plymouth Rock. P-town, as New Englanders call it, attracts throngs of visitors in summer with its beaches, narrow streets dense with restaurants and stores, and thriving arts and theatre community. A young woman on the busy main shopping street pitched the Grand Central Restaurant (5 Masonic Place, Provincetown, 508-487-7599).
“The food is excellent and the prices are better because it’s off the main street,” she promised, and she was right.
Barnstable: We visited the U.S. Coast Guard Heritage Museum (3353 Main Street/Route 6A; Admission: $5 donation). Retired USCG members volunteer at the museum and are happy to recount their highseas adventures and tour visitors through the compact facility overflowing with USCG equipment and memorabilia.
Barnstable’s Old Gaol, built in 1690, the oldest wooden jail in the U.S. is free to visit.
Hyannis Whale Watcher Cruises (269 Millway, Barnstable, 800-287-0374; CAA discount available) offered a spectacular afternoon cruise past the tip of the Cape into the Atlantic. While our boat slowed to a quiet idle, as many as seven whales swam, rolled and fin-slapped the surface to everybody’s delight.