An expert’s tips for smooth skin

Body gel is milder than a soap bar

It’s no secret we need to moisturize against winter’s cool, dry air to keep our skin soft and supple. But how to choose the season’s best skin quenchers? Beth Thompson, beauty editor of More magazine, wades through dozens of beauty products each month, carefully sifting the great from the so-so. When the Toronto-based editor recently swung through Vancouver, she shared her top tricks and picks for keeping your skin nourished this winter. Moisturize with formulas that use

aquaporins “The biggest trend we’ve noticed in the beauty world is, as with all things, there’s a deeper level of understanding of the science of how things work and that applies to dry skin as well,” says Thompson.

One of the biggest breakthroughs happened when U.S. researcher Peter Agre discovered aquaporins, which are proteins that carry water molecules in and out of skin cells. For the first time, it was understood that our skin could be kept hydrated at a cellular level — rather than just slapping on moisturizer and trying to seal it in.

Agre won the Nobel Prize in 2003 for the discovery and ever since, the beauty industry has been building on the science to deliver better hydration.

“That’s really been a big breaking point for dry skin,” says Thompson.

“You’ll see a lot of products that say 24-hour hydration, or 48-hour hydration, and you’re thinking, ‘Yeah right, how is that working?’ But it’s really because the particles are so small, and they’re going so deep and it’s affecting your skin at a cellular level.”

Even drugstore moisturizers have formulas that use aquaporins to deliver long-lasting hydration. Look for products that specify “aquaporin”or “24-hour moisture.”

Thompson’s top picks include: Nivea’s Hydra IQ Body Milk ($10); and Vichy’s Nutriextra hand cream ($10).

Don’t take hot showers Though it may be tempting, avoid hot showers or baths be- cause hot water dissolves the natural oils that sit on your skin.

Keep water to a lukewarm temperature and use a moisturizing body wash free of harsh chemicals that strip skin of moisture.

Thompson says it’s better to use a body gel than a soap bar because they tend to be milder and free of sulphates, a foaming agent.

Among her top picks for hydrating bath wash is Dove’s Deep Moisture body wash ($6).

Exfoliate Exfoliation plays a big role in keeping skin hydrated because your skin will better absorb moisturizer without the barrier of dead skin cells.

There are two types of exfoliators: A physical one that uses ingredients such as rice and oatmeal to create friction with the skin and a chemical one that uses ingredients such as lactic acid to dissolve dead skin cells.

The science shows there’s no difference between the two types, says Thompson, who recommends exfoliating twice a week.

Her favourite exfoliants include: Dermalogica’s Multivitamin Thermafoliant ($64) for the face; Philosophy’s Micro Exfoliating Triple-Acid Brightening Peel ($88); and Aveeno’s rice and pomegranate smoothing body wash ($8), which combines a gentle exfoliant with bath gel. Switch to a richer moisturizer Winter’s the time to switch up your body moisturizer for something richer and creamier. This is the perfect time to use body butters. Thompson especially likes Crabtree & Evelyn’s Pomegranate, Argan and Grapeseed Oil Body Cream ($34).

“It’s sustainably harvested. There’s a fair trade agreement they have with women in Morocco who harvest the oil.”

For the face, you may want to consider using a night cream or an essential oil at night.

“There really is such a thing as beauty sleep. If you can use that downtime with a nice oil or something like that, you’ll be amazed when you wake up how fabulous your skin feels,” says Thompson, who recommends trying oils by Clarins, Decleor and Kiehl’s. Choose a moisturizer

with a long history If you’re at a total loss as to which brand to go with, choose a company that’s built its name on moisturizers.

Brands such as Olay, Nivea and Gold Bond are good bets, says Thompson.

Despite the litany of competing brands on the market, Olay continues to be one of her favourite facial moisturizers, especially the Olay Total Effects 7 daily moisturizer ($30).

She also recommends for the body Gold Bond Ultimate Soothing Skin Therapy ($13), a new product which will be available starting in December.