Breathtaking: A to Z guide to whitewater rafting on B.C.’S Thompson River
Yell, scream and just try to find the time to catch your breath as you hit these whitewater rapids. Here’s an A-to-Z guide to a bucket-list trip down B.C.’s Thompson River.
AWESTRUCK: Arrive at Kumsheen Rafting Resort, peer down into what is called White Canyon for the first time, and get ready for that heart-in-throat feeling. You can see whitewater from way up on the plateau, and logic tells you it must be much bigger when you’re right on top of it in a raft.
BRITISH COLUMBIA’S MAJESTIC THOMPSON RIVER: This is Kumsheen founder Bernie Fandrich’s newest book, published this year. It’s an indispensable guide whether you’re river rafting, hiking or just a history buff. Fandrich pioneered whitewater rafting here in the early ’70s, and this book is an anecdotal literary trip down the river.
CP AND CN RAILWAYS: The tracks run along both sides of the Thompson. On the CN side particularly, workers had to blast through solid rock, and later, build rock sheds that still serve to divert the constant crumble of the rock cliffs onto the tracks below.
DEVIL’S GORGE: Forget life as you know it as you enter the narrowing of the Thompson, the steeper gradient and the ensuing sets of rapids between Frog Rapids and Jaws of Death. The rapids are rated from Grade 1 to 5 depending on the volume of water that’s being funnelled between unforgiving rock cliffs. Of note: Every rapid feels like a Grade 5.
EAGLES: They’re everywhere. Stoic-looking couples swooping over the river to get dinner for the family, the juveniles hanging out and trying to look cool with their blotchy feathers, even a rare golden eagle that can be mistaken for an osprey but is identified because it looks — as one guide puts it — “like an eagle on steroids.”
FROG RAPIDS: It’s named for the monstrous, inky frog-shaped rock in the centre of the river. You hit this hard, and can’t wait for the next one.
GULP: The Gulp surfing wave that occurs just before the legendary Frog Rapids is formed from a below-water bedrock shelf as the water curls up to create a monster wave.
HERBY’S FOLLY: In his book, Fandrich shares the story of another experienced raft-company owner who ran these rapids during huge volume at more than 100,000 cubic feet per second. This section of the river is smooth at low levels, but at such increased volume, Herby hit hard, his motorized raft flipped and he was trapped underneath. Herby broke free and, shortly after, moved to Mexico.
INTENSITY: Spring runoff can double the water volume on the Thompson. As water levels subside in summer, more rocks are exposed and what might be a gentle ripple in May can be a monster in July. Or vice versa.
JAWS OF DEATH RAPIDS: The name refers to the stone canyon bridge where many workers died more than a century ago during construction of this railway arch. The stones are held together without mortar, and rafting along this stretch takes you almost right under this feat of stonemasonry. The rapids are also named Jaws of Death.
KUMSHEEN: This First Nations word describes the confluence of the Fraser and Thompson rivers at Lytton as the blue-green Thompson waters meet those of the muddy Fraser.
LYTTON: On a typical summer day Lytton could also double as a gigantic outdoor pizza oven, routinely scoring the hottest temperature in B.C. or battling it out with nearby Lillooet.
MOTHER-IN-LAW: Guides have named almost all of the rapids, including Tunnels of Doom, Devil’s Kitchen, Cutting Board, Garburator, Witch’s Cauldron, Jaws of Death, Bad Attitude and Mother-in-Law, which refers either to the sweet spot or the wrath. True to form, you never know what the hell you’ll get.
NICOMEN HOUSE: Fandrich purchased this property at the foot of a waterfall a few years ago so guests would have a beautiful spot to have lunch and recharge. The spot is about halfway between Spences Bridge and Lytton, just before Frog Rock.
OSPREY: These birds were close to extinction before being named an endangered species in the 1960s and are regular scouts on the river. You’re fortunate if you get a chance to see their acrobatic moves as they hit the river to snag a fish with their talons.
PADDLE/POWER: Whether paddling or riding in the power J-boat, the Thompson does not disappoint. You can choose paddle, power or do both. Either way, you’ll get wet.
QUIET: Kumsheen Rafting Resort is an oasis complete with a pool, hot tub, fine dining — the beef tenderloin with greenpeppercorn sauce is fabulous and, yes, you’ve earned a piece of the legendary flourless choco- late cake. There are facilities for camping and RVing, plus several teepees and canvas cabins complete with platform beds and linens.
RAPIDS: The full-day trip starts at Spences Bridge before breaking for lunch at Nicomen. After lunch, there are 18 sets of rapids before the takeout at Lytton.
SOAKED: Kumsheen has jackets, pants and wetsuits, plus they sell gear. It’s a good idea to at least wear the jackets even on hot days as frequent splashes leave you soaked. Although the Thompson is one of the warmer B.C. rivers, you can become chilled easily.
TOURISTS: Kumsheen is a favourite for European visitors who want rugged Canadiana: They land in Vancouver, head to Whistler, then Kumsheen for whitewater before wrapping up in Banff.
UNDERWATER: Not even close, except by your choice in the calm stretches of the river when you’re permitted to jump in and float alongside the raft. Fandrich’s a professional who’s been doing this for 40 years. He also runs a guide school and only hires the best.
VORTEX: Rafting lets you discover your inner vortex. People look at you differently after a whitewater trip: They don’t mess with you. WASHING MACHINE RAPIDS: One of the last sets of rapids, but one that seems to defy gravity as water shouldn’t be able to go vertical. You’re not sure which way the water will take you — and it’ll have you laughing, then shrieking.
XTREME ADVENTURE: It’s an unforgettable, heart-pounding ride.
YELLOW GLOW: It hits White Canyon at sunset and bathes everything in muted tones.
ZZZZZ: After a day conquering the Thompson, these start before your head even hits the pillow.