Occidental marches to its own beat
Valley area lures with sense of unrushed leisure
I feel naughty as I sip from the glass. Bubbles explode across my lips — is 10 a.m. too early to start drinking, I ponder? However, how could one refuse a glass of something chilled when you know it’s regularly served to those at the White House?
My husband and I have just arrived at the Iron Horse Vineyards in the Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Calif. It’s an independent, family-owned estate that founders Audrey and Barry Sterling thought looked like Camelot, with the rolling hills and walls of trees.
I could certainly conjure that image, too, but the fog that usually inhabits these valleys was not present to give it that mystical feeling. Today the sun was beating down on the 65 hectares of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines.
This vineyard was just one of many suggestions made by our innkeeper, Jerry Wolsborn. Along with his wife Tina, they run the Inn at Occidental where we are spending two nights as part of our honeymoon trip down the West Coast — from Whistler to San Francisco.
We took a turn off Highway 101 and immediately began a slower paced journey down the meandering country roads that lead to Occidental.
Founded in 1876, Occidental was a summer retreat for those escaping the fogs of San Francisco. After the redwoods were logged, homesteaders built homes and began planting orchards and vineyards in their place. Today, the centre of town is lined with a few quaint shops, an excellent pub and some great dining options — all within walking distance of our accommodation.
Over a glass of wine and plate of cheese, elegantly served every day in the afternoon, Jerry pointed out the must-see vineyards in the Russian River Valley.
This area of Sonoma is a bit more off-the-beaten track than the better-known Napa Valley, but we were hoping this would mean an escape from the crowds. His local knowledge and clear passion for the area helped us plot a feasible plan for the next day — our map a mess of highlighter pen and scribbled notes.
After an exquisite dinner at a little French spot called Bistro des Copains, we wandered up the street for a nightcap at the Barley and Hops Tavern. Founded by longtime home brewers Noah and Mirijam Bolmer, we pored over the chalkboard of rotating draft beers. A note of caution: There are some potent offerings, but they are more than happy to let you try before you buy.
Full of food and drink we waddled back to our suite. As we made our way up the stairs we startled a deer that had been foraging in the nearby bushes. Each of the 16 rooms that make up the inn are individually themed and decorated, but all of them feature a double spa tub and fireplace.
A collection of brass sprinklers from the ’40s and ’50s decorated the wall above the ginormous tub and a Cape Cod folk art painting of mermaids and sailors hung above the fire in our suite, called the Summer Room.
In the morning we tucked into one of the inn’s famous breakfast recipes — French toast stuffed with orange cream served with apple and chicken sausages. So that’s how we ended up sipping sparkling wine that was once served to Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev at their summit meetings. Our favourites of the morning were the 2009 Summer Cuvee and the Rose de Pinot Noir — both perfect for a summer’s day in Camelot.
We decided to take a walk before lunch and headed to the Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve. Sunlight filtered through the towering redwoods, which would have covered this area before logging began during the 19th century.
Soon our bellies began to rumble, so we stopped at a hip-looking place called Big Bottom Market in Guerneville. With food described as “lumberjack chic,” we delved into a “g-villy,” a hot-pressed sandwich teeming with roast beef, peppers and melted havarti.
With a busy afternoon under our belts and the sun beginning to set behind the vineyards, we finished off the day back at the Barley and Hops Tavern. Occidental has lulled me into a different rhythm, one of unrushed leisure, which I am only just beginning to appreciate.
The slow, twisting roads of the Russian River Valley hold vineyard gems, quaint villages and great culinary finds. You just have to take the time to dawdle through them, relishing each experience.