Chef’s new venture has ‘urban comfort’ flavour
Kenny Kaechele has been looking for the right location for years. He’s had opportunities to open his own restaurant in the past, but the time was never right. So he’s been a chef-for-hire in the local restaurant scene, opening restaurants for other restaurateurs, all the while honing his skills and biding his time. He was one of the opening chefs at Divino (the “new” location), did a long stint as executive chef at The Ranche and then shorter tenures at Tango Bistro, Rouge and a slew of others.
Then, a few months ago, an RFP was announced for the restaurant space in Theatre Junction Grand at 608 — 1 Street S.W., and Kaechele won the bid. This would be the location for Workshop Kitchen + Culture (403-266-7062).
Working with Connie Young of CeDeCe Design and Mark Lawes of Theatre Junction, the issues that had hindered previous restaurants — Velvet and Ubu — were addressed.
Challenge #1: How do you draw people into a restaurant that’s hidden inside a theatre lobby? Although this will be an ongoing challenge, the team redesigned the historic entry, adding long couches that draw you into the restaurant. The couches can be used as service areas for business breakfasts and pre-show drinks as well as for dining overflow.
To further soften the area, a wood counter has been installed at the front of the ticket wicket and a concierge station has been placed nearby. The concierge will act as a welcoming station for both Workshop and the Grand Theatre.
Challenge #2: How do you separate diners from the onslaught of a couple of hundred theatregoers? It can detract from the dining experience to have dozens of people looking over your shoulder while trying to have a quiet dinner.
A small separation wall has been built to more clearly define the dining area. As well, a back entrance to the restaurant has been closed to reduce people walking through the restaurant to the theatre. And the kitchen has been redesigned to improve the flow of service.
In the process, the old, wooden theatre catwalks that were hung overhead were shifted to form a wall in the lounge area. Chandeliers were built from swing-arm desk lamps, and theatre riggings were hung on the walls to create a workshop tone. With a collection of new bistro tables, long workshop tables, and seats along the kitchen counter, there’s a variety of alternatives for groups and individuals.
Upstairs, the former unisex washrooms have been maintained. (That’s unisex in the sink area — the biffies are separate.) And the former nightclub neon look has been subdued by tall, padded “sofa-quettes” that can be easily moved on wheels to accommodate functions. The freshly renovated Workshop should enhance the experience for patrons of both the restaurant and the theatre.
Challenge #3: What kind of food works for a business lunch, pre-theatre and dining-out crowd? The variety of clients calls for a flexible menu.
So Kaechele has created a list of what he calls “urban comfort” dishes such as hummus-crusted lamb rack with lamb shoulder ragout ($38 — big — and $60 — bigger; many of the dishes come in two sizes for personal or shared dining) and gin-and-juniper-cured trout with sweet potato croquettes ($12). Dinner is also available in multi-course tastings ($48 to $85), while lunch comes in the form of sandwiches such as hanger steak with tomatillo relish, crispy onions and blue cheese ($22), flatbreads (braised chicken, tomato olive, goat cheese, $18) and polenta lasagna ($18). Or, you can pick a $25, three-course lunch (including a beverage).
Kaechele has also designed his drink menu to be flexible. His wine list features pours in 3, 6 and 9 ounces, and gluten-free options are at the ready. The menus themselves are presented in duo-tang folders and are dated to show when they were created. To help him in the kitchen, Kaechele has brought in chef Chris Lorenz and Alex Hamilton. Running the beverage program is Alex Hamilton and general manager is Aaron Huizinga, formerly of Tango Bistro. Workshop is the culmination of over 20 years in the restaurant business for Kaechele, his opportunity to showcase what he’s learned. He says it’s the right time and the right place for him. Kaechele’s Workshop is now open for business.