RED WINES TO BEAT SUMMER HEAT
“Strawberries, cherries and an angel’s kiss in spring, my summer wine is really made from all these things.”
The opening line to the classic song Summer Wine — initially a hit for Nancy Sinatra and Lee Hazelwood in 1967 (and since covered by U2 and Lana Del Ray) — is just one of many songs to glorify the joys of sipping wine on a summer’s day — despite the dark undertones this particular song reveals as it progresses.
Many of us however can’t stomach the thought of drinking a heavy red wine when temperatures soar and so we turn instead to rosé and whites, perhaps overlooking the fact that there is a sweet spot for summer reds. Lighter-bodied red wines can take a chill no problem and they are ideal when serving red meats hot off the grill. Here are a few of my favourites.
FRANZ HASS 2012 PINOT NERO — $ 44
It has been well documented that good Pinot Noir will cost you, and the versions from Italy — where it is known as Pinot Nero — are no exception. Franz Haas produces exceptional white wines from their base in the Alto Adige but they also happen to deliver some delicious Pinot as well. It is light in body but not light in flavour, offering up notes of crushed berries, spice and minerals. The versatility of this varietal means you can serve it with fish or meat and just about everything in between. When things heat up give it 20 minutes in the fridge; a quintessential fancy summer dinner party wine from a firstrate producer.
PODERI LUIGI EINAUDI DOGLIANI 2012 — $ 26
This northern Italian red is actually made from the Dolcetto grape despite the fact the producer decided to remove the varietal from the label altogether. Time was when Dolcetto could be counted on to be a light, easydrinking wine but there are now some fairly extracted versions out there as well.
This one is fairly classic in style displaying notes of black fruits, leather, licorice, almonds and a little smoke. There is no oak on this wine at all, just the pure expression of the varietal. There is some lively acidity as well, making it a nice match with a tomato salad or a simple dish of pasta, basil and fresh tomatoes.
Serve lightly chilled.
RABL ST. LAURENT 2011 — $ 23
St. Laurent — most likely a relative of Pinot Noir — is grown widely in Austria, some of it great, some of it not-so-great. Rabl is one of Austria’s best producers and its version is a perfect summer wine, a bright, zesty vino with some tart cherry fruit and a touch of minerality. You could serve this one with a nice chill alongside some grilled seafood or barbecued chicken.
Looking for wine in Alberta? Go to www.liquorconnect.com Geoff Last is a longtime Calgary wine merchant and writer and a regular contributor to City Palate and other publications. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks.