HARMONIOUS HONG KONG
City of 7 million merges glass and steel with countless serene natural vistas
Most people only think of Hong Kong as a city of towering glass, concrete and steel skyscrapers.
Not always apparent to the naked eye are the parks — both massive and mini — tucked into pockets around this city of seven million whose name translates to Fragrant Harbour. When you find a little park, it’s another delightful Hong Kong surprise.
But the best way to appreciate how much of the city has been built on the philosophy of feng shui — the centuries-old Chinese practice of living in harmony with nature — is to head up the steep historic tram to The Peak. From early morning to midnight, any time of day is perfect for taking in the panoramic vistas overlooking Victoria Harbour — all from about 500 metres above sea level.
The Peak is one of the top mustsee tourist spots in Hong Kong. The ride costs about $7 Cdn for an adult, and it’s the perfect perch to get a lay of the land. The skinny, soaring skyscrapers — where one square metre of space can fetch around $70,000 — appear to shoot up out of mini-jungles of lush foliage.
FENG SHUI AND THE CITY
One of the major banks, my guide tells me, has a front-row seat on the South China Sea. It has a legal provision that says no building can be built in front of it because in feng shui moving water brings prosperity and keeps the money flowing. So prevalent is the practice, you can take a feng shui tour in Hong Kong to see just how important it is.
From The Peak, you’ll see what is figuratively Hong Kong’s front yard. The “back garden,” however, offers expansive country parks, deserted beaches, hiking trails and even campsites.
Few major metropolises can brag that you can hop on public transit or flag a taxi to remote beaches and hiking trails for about $30. It’s not something a lot of tourists take advantage of, my guide tells me. I wonder why when, within 45 minutes, we feel like we’re a million miles from the hustle and bustle of the city as we visit the Hong Kong Global Geopark of China.
The park is filled with hexagonal volcanic columns and hiking trails that wind along above a deserted brilliant blue inlet. Within an hour from the shoulder-to-shoulder city, we’re pretty much alone, except for a few tourists.
COUNTRY PARKS
We’re in Sai Kung in the north- east territories, one of the country parks that makes up 40 per cent of Hong Kong island. (Surprisingly, just seven per cent of Hong Kong is designated for residential use.)
Our vantage point from the trail shows miles of coastline with conical peaks, beaches and forest. It’s a dreamy landscape that I wish I had more time to explore.
We set aside another day for fleeing the city and head to Lantau Island, the largest island of the Hong Kong district, west of the city. It’s another easily accessible day trip by public transit, ferry, taxi or Ngong Ping 360, a 5.5-km cable car trip way above the valley floor.
But first we take a side trip to Tian Tan to see the Big Buddha set in a beautiful green valley. We hoof it up the 268 steps to one of the largest bronze sitting Buddha statues in the world — all 34 metres of it. What makes it more surreal are the endless valley, mountain and sea views. Off in the distance stands the golden pagoda-style roof of the Po Lin Monastery, which you can also tour.
No wonder devout Buddhists come to this valley from all over the world. You feel as if you’ve dropped into a little slice of Shangri-La.
TAKING IT SLOW ON TAI- O
Hearing that Tai- O is another peaceful place to while away an afternoon on Lantau Island, we pick up a couple of rental bikes and pedal our way around this old fishing village where the ramshackle homes look as if they might fall into the water at any moment. This little outpost is Hong Kong’s oldest fishing village and home to generations of fishermen.
We spend some time poking around in the little open-air market stalls trying to figure out all the strange looking dried seafood before we settle into an outdoor patio overlooking the waterways amid all the precarious-looking homes.
As we nurse a beer, an old fisherman takes a ladder from his home down to the water. He hops into his motorboat and putters off as the sun sinks into the sky, hoping, no doubt, to fill his net with fish — the way his ancestors have been doing for centuries.
We feel our figurative fishing net is full after such a wonderful day on this beautiful island, so far away, yet so close to the city.
PRACTICALITIES
Getting around: There are numerous options for getting around Hong Kong, including MTR (subway), bus, ferry and tram. The Octopus card helps visitors access all of these after activating at a local 7-Eleven or Circle K convenience store.
Airport: Getting to the island of Hong Kong is fast and efficient from Hong Kong International Airport. An MTR Airport Express runs every 12 minutes and takes under 30 minutes to get to the central business hub. Taxis and hired limos are also an option, but will cost more.
Language: Cantonese is the Chinese dialect spoken in Hong Kong, but English is spoken everywhere. At the very least everyone can say hi, hello, goodbye and thank you.