IN SEASON: DRY EYES
Scallions, green onions, spring onions, ramps and leeks are all sweeter, mellower versions of their larger cousins. And they represent a much-needed hit of fresh green after a long winter.
Scallions, green onions, spring onions, ramps and leeks are all sweeter, mellower and tastier versions of their larger cousins.
Beer-Battered Spring Onions
In spring, onion rings hit the straight and narrow. Lemon aioli adds a bit of zip.
Onions:
2-3 bunches small green onions 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup cornstarch 1/2 tsp baking powder coarse or flaky salt 3/4 cup beer or soda water canola oil, for cooking
Lemon Aioli:
1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tbsp grainy mustard 1 tbsp lemon juice pinch salt
Trim the fuzzy ends off the onions and cut them into 2-3-inch lengths. (Save the green tops for another use.)
In a medium bowl, whisk to gether the flour, cornstarch, baking powder and a pin ch of salt. Whisk in the beer until smooth—it should have a texture somewhere between pan cake batter and heavy cream.
Heat about an inch of oil in a heavy medium pot over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, but not smoking, dunk a few green onions at a time in the batter to coat, then cook in the oil, turning with tongs as they turn golden. Transfer to a paper-towellined plate, and shower with coarse salt.
To make the aioli, stir together the mayo, mustard and lemon juice. Serve warm, with aioli for dipping. Serves 4-6.
Grilled Spring Onion Spanish Tortilla
This classic Spanish egg dish can be served at brunch or, cut in squares, as a cold appetizer at a party.
Canola or olive oil, for cooking 3-4 medium russet or Yukon Gold potatoes scrubbed and sliced 1/4inch thick 1 bunch small green onions or a few larger spring onions 6 large eggs salt and pepper, to taste
Set a heavy 8-9-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add a generous drizzle of oil and cook the potatoes, sprinkling with salt and covering occasionally. Meanwhile, cut onions in half lengthwise if the bulbs are larger than an inch around, toss them in a bit of oil and grill until just charred. Chop and add them to the potatoes.
In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs with a pinch of salt and pepper and pour over the potatoes. Poke it all around and reduce the heat and cook until the bottom starts to set; loosen the bottom and edges with a spatula and invert onto a plate then slide it back into pan. Cook it through until golden on both sides. Serve hot, at room temperature, or cold. Serves 6.