Checking out potential used car purchases
Considering the financial risk, taking a half-hour is worth the time
If you’ve got a pre-owned vehicle on your short list and have arranged an appointment (with either a private seller or dealership), there are a few things you can check to make sure you don’t get burned.
In previous column we listed some things to look for on the body and paint and described an easy way to check under a vehicle without getting dirty or using a hoist by using a smartphone or camera and a selfie stick.
Turning to things to check under the hood, first pop off the engine oil filler cap and look for any white or light brown gel-like deposits on the underside of this cap. It may mean water or coolant contamination of the engine oil from a leaking head gasket or a history of short runs that never let the engine warm up completely.
Neither are good indicators of long-term reliability.
Check the engine coolant reservoir for similar gunk or discolouration.
First find out if this container has a pressurized cap; make sure the engine is completely cooled off before trying to loosen it.
With hands clear, have someone start the engine while the hood is open to give you a good chance to hear anything unusual. It’s best to do this with a cold engine to find out if there are any valve-train or exhaust noises.
Listen for any unusual sounds, such as the clack-clack of a failing valve system or the squeak or squeal of a pulley or belt in need of replacement. If the car has air conditioning, locate the AC compressor (belt-driven and located on the pulley/belt end of the engine).
Have a helper turn on the AC to its MAX setting and watch to make sure the AC compressor pulley engages and that it doesn’t cycle rapidly off and on.
The pulley will have a round plate on its outboard end that will remain stationary until the AC is turned on. If it does cycle off and on, the system is probably low on refrigerant gas and that may be an expensive repair.
After checking under the hood, you can get inside the vehicle to check things out. Try every seat belt to make sure they extend, retract and latch OK.
Move every seat adjustment. If the engine is still running, turn it off and flip the key to the on position without starting. This will illuminate every dash warning light to make sure no warning system has been disabled.
Then fire up the engine again to make sure all the lights go out. Run every control to make sure everything works. Feel the floor carpeting for any signs of dampness.
With your seat belt fastened and mirrors adjusted (you checked to make sure they worked, right?) it’s time to hit the road. Few sellers (private or commercial) will let you take out a vehicle on your own, and that’s understandable.
But if you have them as a copilot, politely ask them to keep their chatter or sales pitch down so you can hear what the vehicle is telling you.
While on the road, check that the vehicle accelerates and shifts smoothly. If it’s equipped with a manual gearbox, note how far you have to release the clutch pedal before the car moves. If the release point is high on the pedal travel, it usually means a clutch that’s on its way out (ouch to the wallet).
Take a few complete corners to make sure the steering wheel recentres easily without effort.
Check for any unusual steering pull or wandering.
Listen for any odd suspension or drivetrain noises. If you pick up on any noticeable humming or whirring, gently swerve the steering back and forth. If this noise changes during those moves, it’s most likely a bad wheel bearing.
Make sure your test route includes a highway, so you can get up to speed. While you are at highway speed, check for any wheel vibrations and step on the brakes from time to time (when traffic permits) to make sure there is no pull to one side or excessive vibration.
This might seem like a lot, but doing these checks and a test drive should take no longer than 30 to 40 minutes. When you consider the financial risk of a bad purchase, it is time well spent.