LIFE ON THE CABOT TRAIL
Sure, there’s lobster, but…
As the sun was sinking below an abandoned wharf on the Gulf of St. Lawrence outside the fishing village of Cheticamp on the west coast of Cape Breton Island, I stood on a rocky beach with a small group of travellers listening to Miranda Dodd, a Parks Canada interpreter, talk about lobster.
As it turns out, there’s a lot to know.
Lobster has played an important role in the culture and economics of the tiny Nova Scotia towns that line the Cabot Trail. There was a time when these crustaceans were so plentiful and underappreciated that only the poorest children took lobster sandwiches in their lunches while the rich kids ate bologna. In those days, lobster canneries canned only the meatiest parts, discarding the claws because there wasn’t enough meat on them to worry about.
“We used to stop after school to eat some of the discarded claws from the lobster cannery,” admitted Raymond LeFort, a local in our group. “Everyone did it.
“We were all poor, so there was no shame in it.”
Lobster has come a long way since those early days. Today, fishing is a highly regulated industry and locals wouldn’t dream of throwing out a lobster claw when fishermen are getting $9 a pound. Lobster is a delicacy — even in Cheticamp.
I could eat lobster every day without complaint, but the idea of cooking a live lobster has always intimidated me. Learn to Lobster Boil is one of the newest programs offered by Parks Canada in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It aims to take the mystery out of cooking lobster and teach visitors a little about the biology of the species and the culture of the communities whose economy depends on lobster fishing.
After our brief history and biology lesson, Miranda’s assistant put some ocean water in the bottom of a large boiling pot, added some extra salt and lit a propane stove to get the water boiling. We each took a live lobster from another pot and carefully examined it. Some people named their lobsters, but mine remained nameless — I have a strict policy against naming anything I am about to eat.
We tipped the lobsters upside down and rested them on their heads for a few minutes while the water was heating. Some people believe this sedates them and makes the cooking process more humane. When the water was boiling, we crossed the claws, removed the elastic bands on the pincers and placed the lobsters headfirst into the pot.
About 15 minutes later, our steamed lobsters were ready to eat.
As I reached inside the pot to remove the cooked lobster, I could no longer tell which one was mine.
It’s possible I ate Leonard, but he tasted so good I harbour no regrets.
The Details: Learn to Lobster Boil takes place Wednesday evenings on Cape Breton Island, N.S., near Cheticamp through the end of August and costs $44 per person. An interpretive program is part of the experience and the meal includes lobster, salad, buns and dessert. Call 902-224-2306 to register.
Visit: pc.gc.ca for more information.
GETTING AROUND CAPE BRETON ISLAND
Drive: Renowned for its dramatic coastal views and stunning highlands, Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail is one of Canada’s iconic drives. You could drive the entire trail in one day, but you really should give yourself several days to explore it. You’ll want to venture off the main road soaking in the scenery, culture, and unique adventures in this region. (cbisland.com)
Cycle: Rent a bicycle and explore the back roads of the tiny fishing communities. We cycled from Cheticamp to an old Gypsum Quarry that is now the community’s unofficial swimming hole. (velomax.ca)
Hike: There are 26 hiking trails in Cape Breton Highlands National Park, and Parks Canada staff offer guided interpretive hikes along some of the iconic trails. We hiked Jack Pine Trail, Franey Trail, and the iconic Sky Line Trail during a short visit. (pc. gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ns/cbreton/ index.aspx)
Kayak: Several companies offer kayak rentals and guided excursions on Cape Breton Island. We kayaked in the North River area and on Bras d’Or Lake’s Bell Bay with North River Kayak. The guided sunset excursion on Bell Bay was an absolute highlight of the trip. (northriverkayak.com)
Sail: We sailed the Bras d’Or Lakes from the village of Baddeck on a 43-person wooden schooner and watched as two eagles soared overhead. The voyage goes past Alexander Graham Bell’s mansion, Beinn Bhreagh, and past some beautiful scenery. The commentary was comical. (amoebasailingtours.com)
Explore: Check out the hookers in Cheticamp (they make nice rugs), explore the Alexander Graham Bell Museum and the Fortress of Louisbourg, visit a brewery or a pub and listen to some fiddle music.