CAN’T-MISS SIGHTS IN ST. JOHN’S
Colourful homes lining a rugged harbour. Marvellous music. And the nicest folks in all of Canada. This is a city that offers a distinctive and wonderful travel experience. Jim Byers takes a look at five great things to do in Newfoundland’s capital.
THE BATTERY AND SIGNAL HILL
The walk from downtown St. John’s to the lookout at Signal Hill might be the best in Canada. You start out in town and find yourself in a maze of narrow laneways snaking through colourful homes clinging to the rocks above the harbour. Signal Hill offers sensational views of the city or sometimes the island’s famous fog rolling in. On a clear day you can see Cape Spear, the easternmost point of Canada.
GEORGE STREET
There’s really no street in Canada like this one — a series of Irish pubs and small bars that come alive at night with music of all varieties. I’ve seen acts that sound like the Irish Rovers, but also Johnny Cash sound-alikes and folk acts. They say there are more pubs per square foot here than any place on Earth. Blue Rodeo’s Jim Cuddy has been known to poke his head into the Duke of Duckworth when he’s in town. ( georgestreetlive.ca/ bars/)
FOOD AND SHOPPING
Raymond’s has been voted one of the best restaurants in Canada. The emphasis is on fresh and sustainable seafood and wild game (raymondsrestaurant.com/). Baccala draws on the heritage of Portuguese fishermen who trolled for cod in Newfoundland’s waters, with everything from short rib ravioli to house-cured salt cod ( bacalaocuisine.ca/). For a quick bite or a fine cup of coffee, try Rocket Bakery and Fresh Food on Water Street (rocketfood.ca).
THE ROOMS
This hillside centre offers some of the best views of the city and is a fine museum. You’ll find explanations of how native Canadians eked out an existence in harsh conditions. The arrival of the Vikings and other Europeans is well documented, as is the rise and fall of the cod fishing industry. Current offerings include the Royal Newfoundland Regiment on the 100th anniversary of the famous Beaumont-Hamel battle in the First World War. (therooms.ca/).
QUIDI VIDI
This pretty lake minutes from downtown leads to a rocky cove with small fishing huts lining the cliffs. At the Quidi Vidi (pronounced Kiddy Viddy) Plantation, artisans ply their crafts and sell their goods. The Quidi Vidi Brewing Co. (quidividibrewery.ca/) is a few steps away. One of their products is Iceberg Beer, said to be made with 25,000-yearold water from North Atlantic icebergs.