DINE OUT REVIEWS: Begim
okay, I’ll admit it. Prior to eating at Begim— the first Uzbekistan restaurant in Alberta, and one of only a handful in Canada—I consulted a map. Geography lesson learned (located on the Silk Road, Uzbekistan is one of the largest of the Central Asian states and borders four of the other ’stans: Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan), I set off with great anticipation for lunch with friends.
Begim is a family-run operation that opened in May in an old house just off International Avenue. It’s tastefully decorated with patterned wallpaper and folkloric touches such as embroidered Uzbekistan costumes on the wall. Matriarch Mastura was in the kitchen during our visit, and her daughter Nigora was our server. Immediately upon seating us, she asked if we’d like some tea—black or green. We chose the latter, and it arrived in a beautiful, Uzbek teapot, along with matching drinking bowls, $3. The tea was tasty and had floral overtones. When we inquired as to the mix, Nigora smiled and politely explained it’s her brother’s blend and something of a secret.
Uzbek cuisine has been influenced by travellers on the Silk Road—there are similarities to Persian and Middle Eastern cuisines—but the dishes at Begim will be revelatory to most. With the prices at Begim, they will also be accessible to most.
We started with three meat somsas, baked pastries stuffed with meat and onions, $3.99 each. Lucky for us, Thursdays are dumpling day, so we ordered the mantis, large dumplings of seasoned lamb, $14.99, as well as the lagma noodles, a stew of lamb, green beans, and red peppers in a homemade sauce, $12.99. Then came the osh, $10.99, a lamb-and-rice-pilaf dish with chick peas, carrots, and raisins, that is topped with an entire head of roasted garlic, which we playfully fought over. Of all the dishes this may have been my favourite. The meat is melt-off-the-bone succulent, the rice delicately spiced with cumin, coriander and raisins. Nigora suggested that osh is traditionally eaten with an achichuk salad, $3.50, which complements the dryness of the pilaf. We took her advice and of course she was right; the salad of tomatoes, onions, coriander, and a touch of hot pepper was a fresh contrast. Finally, we ordered a plate of tok-osh, the Central Asian version of stuffed grape leaves. Forget the glutinous versions you’ve had in some Greek and Middle Eastern joints. Dressed with a pepper-infused oil, these were hot and moist and stuffed with ground meat and spices, $8.99. Portions are generous at Begim. If, halfway through your meal, you’re already feeling full, I recommend asking for a doggie bag, so you’ve room for dessert, which is a must. We tried two. The restaurant’s signature Begim cake, $4.99 a slice, is a layered confection made with condensed milk, then drizzled with chocolate and garnished with a slice of banana. We also had the chak chak, $4.99, a traditional Uzbek dessert formed by shaping pieces of fried dough into a mound that’s held together with honey and often eaten with the hands. When the cheque came we learned that Nigora had made both desserts; in addition to being among the nicest and most attentive servers in recent memory, she’s also an incredible baker.
4413 17th Ave. S.E., 587-353-4413, begim.ca.