PROVISION ENTICES WITH GLOBAL-ECLECTIC FARE
Avec partners launch cosy eatery in retooled Central Memorial Park space
In the spring of 2016, when the Boxwood space in Central Memorial Park became available, it quickly became a location of interest for local restaurateurs. Sal Howell and her River Cafe team had run it successfully for five years but their new Deane House project required all their focus.
Jackie Cooke and Kirk Shaw, the partners behind Avec Bistro liked what they saw. “I love this small space,” says Cooke of the building at 340 13th Ave. S.W. “And the opportunity to do fun events in the Park, like croquet with rosé.”
So Cooke and Shaw acquired the lease, did some renos and opened Provision Restaurant (403-2630776) just before Christmas. Under the direction of Connie Young of Connie Young Design (Ten Foot Henry, Frenchie Wine Bar, Avec), they took advantage of the building’s park setting and woody construction to create a lodge-style atmosphere. The window counter seats are gone in favour of a banquette and lower tables that seat about three dozen. There’s one high table and 10 seats at the bar and the potential for up to 60 seats on the patio come spring. Sea-blue tile was installed along the bar front and bar stools — with backs — were added. The low tables are topped in recycled tire material and the chairs are leather-covered saddle seats. A new service area and a stove have been added, but Boxwood’s rotisserie was removed in the remodelling.
Daniel Pizarro’s lunch menu of soups and sandwiches served on house-baked breads along with fresh pastries and Paradise Mountain coffee fits the new space, too —simple, friendly, cosy and well executed. (Note: Provision will carry a rotating list of other local coffees too, just to keep the caffeinated interested.)
Pizarro is doing double duty as executive chef at both Avec and Provision. The talented chef creates a stylish, classic French bistro menu at Avec and has developed a contemporary, park-inspired, global-eclectic menu (that’s the best label I can think of for this diverse menu) for Provision.
Pizarro, a local chef, started at the Blackfoot Inn, studied at SAIT and then in Paris at L’Ecole Francaise de Gastronomie. While in Paris, he worked under Alain Passard at Restaurant Arpege (#19 on San Pellegrino’s list of the world’s best restaurants) and Daniel Rose at Spring. Passard’s passion for vegetables rubbed off on Pizarro as seen in his new dinner menu with roasted brussels sprouts with lemon-butter, thyme and pecorino ($14), grilled endive with crisp pancetta, buttermilk and honey ($14), charred kale with oyster mushrooms($13) and a daily vegetable ravioli consomme ($7).
Meats and seafood play a big part on Pizarro’s menu too, with roasted lamb sirloin with black garlic ($13/$24), duck breast with anise and rooibos glaze ($13/$24) and Angus tenderloin with brown butter ($14/$26). The two prices indicate portion size —the cheaper for three ounces, the pricier for six. Generally, pricing is reasonable with all lunch items under $20 and dinner entrees topping out at $24.
Ably assisting Pizarro is sous chef Kevin Yang, who doubles as pastry chef for both spots. Yang bakes breads and creates desserts such as a sweet corn-and-chocolate cake with cornflake crisps and a carrot-and-mascarpone cheesecake with walnut milk gel.
Cooke and Shaw, both well versed in the ways of wine, have put together a list of 40 to 50 wines that they will change seasonally.
BANFF’S BIG TASTE
A quick diversion from our wintry weather is coming up shortly in Banff and Lake Louise. From Jan. 18 to 22, Banff’s Big Taste will fill the mountain valley with culinary events of all kinds. Presented by the Banff Hospitality Collective, Banff’s Big Taste kicks off with First Tracks & Lunch, a ski-and-food package at Lake Louise Ski Resort and Whitehorn Bistro. Ski with Louise’s instructors and then enjoy a four-course lunch. Later that day, there’s a Top Chef competition at The Bison, a Rustic Italy dinner at La Terrazza in Banff Park Lodge and a Painted Artist competition at Dancing Sasquatch. (Now, that’s variety.)
Banff’s Big Taste also includes a Grand Tasting Hall at the Fairmont Banff Springs, a familyfriendly chocolate tasting at the Cave & Basin, a whisky seminar at Park Distillery, and a Whisky & Chocolate evening at the Cave & Basin. The wrap-up event on the evening of Jan. 22 features a collaborative Indigenous Winter dinner with chef Chris Irving of Juniper Bistro and chef Nick Nutting (one of Canada’s great chefs) from Tofino’s Wolf in the Fog. For more info and tickets check out banffsbigtaste.com.