JOHN GILCHRIST reveals his list of best new restaurants
The best new restaurants of 2017
2017 was a roller-coaster year for Calgary restaurants. We saw the departure of fine old places such as The Belvedere, Catch, Divino, Bistro Rouge, Glory of India, Abruzzo and more. But while downtown restaurants continue to suffer from the declining economy and increased taxes, salaries and food costs, more and more restaurants opened. We’ve seen increased casualization of dining, more chain restaurants, especially those from Asia, and revived interest in Italian cuisine, along with more focus on vegetable-forward menus.
While we didn’t see the major openings of years’ past, some very good restaurants arrived on the local scene this year. Here are my picks for the top 20 new places to check out.
1
Cotto
Chef Giuseppe Di Gennaro (Capo, Borgo) returned to the culinary scene with another winner in Cotto. His classic Italian comfort food — spaghetti carbonara, pasta fagioli, roasted tomato bruschetta — is given a modern spin yet remains simple and sublime. Try the stewed eggplant funghetto and expect skilled service to match the food.
314 10th St. N.W., 587-356-4088, cottoyyc.com
2
Pad Thai
In a city dotted with fine Thai restaurants, Pad Thai stands out for the complexity of its food and the clarity of its flavours. Plus some unique dishes — pinwheel dumplings, shrimp rolls with cucumber sauce — a pleasant setting and gracious service from sisters Patcharin Smith and Pornuma Worasuksri. Good wines, too. 3106 4th St. N.W., 403-800-0567, PadThaiCalgary.com
3
Elbow Room
Britannia has been brightened by the energy of partners Ryan Blackwell and Josh Brennand, the design of Sarah Ward and the bright, contemporary cuisine of Elbow Room. The stylish food and setting help change the perception of what a suburban restaurant can be.
802 49th Ave. S.W. (Britannia Plaza), 403-460-8128, elbowroombritannia.ca
4
Afghan Kabob
One of the most difficult-to-find restaurants in the city — even Google gets lost — Afghan Kabob is worth the search for richly flavoured Afghan cuisine. That includes a wealth of kebabs as well as “nakhot” chickpeas, mantu steamed dumplings and a lovely braised lamb leg.
5150 47th St. N.E., 403-455-0602, afghankabobcuisine.com
5
Tavernetta
Tavernetta continues this year’s Italian resurgence with kale, goat cheese, roasted grape and hazelnut salad, bucatini with guanciale, pecorino and black pepper, and straight-up meatballs, all in a refurbished historic house with a great backyard patio and bocce court.
1002 Edmonton Trail N.E., 403-250-8894, tavernettayyc.ca 6
Two Penny
One of the hippest, hottest and bestlooking restaurants of the year, Two Penny is a large room — Sarah Ward channelled 1920s Shanghai-deco — with familiar and updated panChinese dishes such as a beef-andbroccoli dish done with slow-roasted Wagyu brisket.
1213 1st St. S.W., 403-474-7766, twopenny.ca
7
Provision
The restaurant in Central Memorial Park formerly known as Boxwood has been taken over and refreshed by Jackie Cooke and Kirk Shaw of Avec Bistro. It’s light and lodgey with Daniel Pizzaro’s skilled menu of roasted Brussels sprouts, charred cabbage and lamb saddle with chickpea purée. 340 13th Ave. S.W., 403-263-0766, provisionyyc.ca
8
Blake
The talented Blake Flann has a big beast to wrestle in his new Blake restaurant in Canmore. This year’s winner of the annual Gold Medal Plates competition is capable of great things on a menu that spans the globe.
810 Bow Valley Trail, Canmore, 403-675-3663, blakecanmore.com 9
Calcutta Cricket Club
A beauty of a restaurant — designed by Maya Gohill — matching its sister spot Two Penny, Calcutta Cricket Club offers a take on Bengali cuisine, including a fine pork butter masala and Tiger beer-marinated portobello mushrooms.
340 17th Ave. S.W., 403-719-1555, calcuttacricketclub.com
10
Masala Bhavan
South Indian dosas and Chettinadu fish curry came to Calgary’s southwest in an unassuming spot near Mount Royal University. They grind their own rice and lentils for their dosas and prepare all their spices and sauces on-site for a traditional experience.
4604 37th St. S.W. (Sarcee Plaza), 403-460-4535, masalabhavan.com
11
Wednesday Room
The only downtown restaurant to appear on this year’s list, the Wednesday Room brings the ’60s lounge esthetic to life in a stylish — and orange-brown — setting with food and smart drinks to match.
118 Stephen Avenue S.W., 403-4525080, wednesdayroom.com 12
Empire Provisions
Charcuterie is taken to the next level by Dave Sturies and Karen Kho at their new Haysboro location. More than just meat, they serve breakfast and lunch, too.
8409 Elbow Drive S.W., 403-2440570, empireprovisions.com
13
Donna Mac
“New Neighbourhood Cuisine” rules at Donna Mac — roasted beets with grapefruit and fromage blanc, grilled endive with buttermilk soubise and a pork-cabbage-pear salad.
1002 9th St. S.W., 403-719-3622, donnamacyyc.ca 14
The Eden
Inglewood’s 1912-built Burn Block is the perfect setting for a little Frenchinspired “blue collar bistro” run by Rob, Nadine and Rose Eden.
1219 9th Ave. S.E., 403-266-1005, edenbistro.ca
15
Big Sky BBQ Pit
Roll down your car window while driving Highway 2A to Okotoks and you’ll smell good barbecue smoke and maybe even hear the blues wailing. Pull in to Big Sky for some smoky treats.
306016 15th St. E., Okotoks, 403938-0701, bigskybbq.ca
16
First & Vine
Michael Frayne, formerly of The Nash and Notable, brings tasty wine bar cuisine to Airdrie with Moroccan lamb ribs, pheasant confit ravioli and a seriously decadent burger.
136 1st Ave. N.E., Airdrie, 403-9809463, firstandvine.ca
17
Pinky’s
Liver and onions — one piece or two — and hot turkey sandwiches fill the plates at Pinky’s in Canmore’s Legion, one of the best — and bestpriced — eateries in the mountains. 834 7th St., Canmore, 403-6095051, canmorelegion.ca
18
Hot Million
Seriously good northern Indian food — both vegetarian and nonvegetarian — is served at Hot Million in Calgary’s northeast in a colourful, casual setting.
2125 36th St. N.E., 403-798-6619, hotmillion.ca
19
Kurry Up!
Jassie Bakshi shifted from his downtown Glory of India to a huge food truck that roams the city with fine Indian foods at great prices. Look for Kurry Up! on Edmonton Trail at 21st Avenue N.E. or in Westhills.
403-351-7900, kurryup.ca
20
Madison’s 1212
They can nacho almost anything at Madison’s 1212 — bulgogi beef, poke tuna, smoked ham and pineapple, even apple pie — with great success. 1212 9th Ave. S.E., 403-452-4970, madisosn1212.com