BACKCOUNTRY SKIING’S ICON
Assiniboine Lodge marks 90 years
Just before noon we broke free of the trees and started skinning up an exposed, wind-blasted ridge that was supposed to, in a perfect world, serve up scintillating views of Mount Assiniboine and the majestic, snow-caked amphitheatre over which it presides. But for some reason, our guide, “Hammer,” Austrian Mark Hammerschmied, couldn’t part the clouds to reveal this utopia. (The final morning more than made up for this.) What he could do, however, was lead us into the “Glades of Glee,” where pillow-soft turns and snorkel-deep snow served up the perfect hors d’oeuvres for the celebratory three-day event.
When one of the most iconic wilderness lodges in the world turns 90 — the birthplace of backcountry skiing in North America, no less — you need to mark the occasion. You need to reminisce. And you need to honour the legends who made it all possible.
But, fittingly, this was not a glamorous gala with fireworks (the star-studded sky was enough), champagne (“cougar milk” seemed more appropriate), and boring speeches by out-of-touch dignitaries (colourful stories by the mountain folk who lived the larger-than-life tales were, rightfully, given precedence). Yes, the 90th anniversary of the Assiniboine Lodge will go down in history, just like the lodge itself, as a classic, unpretentious, and highly memorable affair.
Commissioned in 1928 by the Canadian Pacific Railway and built by a Norwegian, Erling Strom, who managed the lodge for the first 50 years, the history-rich Assiniboine Lodge is a giant, the granddaddy, in the world of backcountry lodges. To say that the remote setting is “idyllic” simply doesn’t do it justice. Straddling the Great Divide, perched on a larch-covered bench high above Lake Magog, the looming summit of Mount Assiniboine (dubbed “The Matterhorn of the Rockies”) reigning over the unspoiled wilderness; yes, this is drool-worthy “Canadiana” if there ever was. Do a survey among travel industry professionals, Canadian Rockies history buffs, outdoor adventurers, and so forth, and ask them what backcountry lodge offers the quintessential Canadian Rockies experience and Assiniboine Lodge would, most likely, be the sentimental favourite. It certainly is mine.
But, while the rough and rustic lodge ( between the main lodge and six cabins, 30 guests can be accommodated) is a cosy, fire-warmed haven in the heart of the Rockies, Mount Assiniboine itself is the real showstopper. The aura, the lore, and the stature of this place simply would not exist if it wasn’t for this massive pyramidal peak that explodes into the sky to a height of 3,618 metres. While Mount Assiniboine is the fifth highest peak in the Canadian Rockies (the highest in the southern Rockies), it is, from a visual standpoint, the crème de la crème. And for photographers, the image potential — of the majestic pyramid reflected in Lake Magog — is as good as it gets.
Adding to the allure of the place is the difficult access. Located nearly 30 kilometres from the nearest road, getting to Assiniboine Lodge takes a bit of work. Guests typically opt for the 10-minute helicopter ride from either Canmore or the Mount Shark Trailhead. The cost is approximately $200 per person each way and seats can be reserved through Assiniboine Lodge. (www. assiniboinelodge.com).
However, many people who visit the lodge and Assiniboine Provincial Park (in addition to the lodge, there are a number of backcountry campgrounds and huts in the area) choose to go in via their own power. Hiking the 27-kilometre trail from Mount Shark in summer is a popular choice. You can also take a trail of similar distance from Sunshine Meadows. And, in winter, provided you’re prepared and experienced, you can crosscountry ski in.
Not surprisingly, given the experience and skill-set of many of the attendees of this anniversary event, a number of them chose to ski in. Margaret Gmoser, for example, 72, the wife of heli-skiing pioneer Hans Gmoser, left at 6 a.m., in the pitch black, and skied in alone. Let’s just say, like her late husband, she’s never been one to shy away from an adventure! Olympians Sara Renner and Thomas Grandi also skied in, something they do numerous times each winter.
Obviously, great adventures are what the past 90 years at Assiniboine Lodge has been all about. In the evening, after a delicious dinner, slide shows and stories were told with plenty of enthusiasm.
Some of the best were told by the amazingly spry Bridget Jones, 94, the wife of the first Canadian-born mountain guide, Ken Jones.
One of the customs after a long day of skiing, she explained on our last evening, was a healthy shot of “cougar milk.” The delicious concoction — rum, condensed milk, and nutmeg — certainly got the blood flowing and the stories going.
“You never want the truth to get in the way of a good story,” chided Sepp Renner, who, together with his wife, Barb, managed the lodge for nearly 30 years. (Since 2010, their son, Andre, as well as Claude and Annick Duchesne, have managed it. The lodge is owned by BC Parks.)
However, the larger-than-life stories hardly needed embellishment. Like, for example, the infamous “Number Seven Challenge,” a seven-stage quest that only the hardiest guides completed. (One of the “challenges” included making the 30-km trip to Banff and back in 24 hours. Bringing back a bottle of Scotch and a current newspaper, to prove that you were there, solidified the accomplishment!)
Thankfully, my “challenge” at Assiniboine didn’t include superhuman tests of endurance.
In fact, hardcore skiing, bagging big lines and ripping through extreme terrain are NOT what Assiniboine Lodge is all about. “Our history, our place in the world, is much more contemplative and slower-paced,” said Andre Renner. “Yes, along with snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, tobogganing, and so on, we definitely do some incredible alpine ski touring here. The powder, the turns, can be epic. But people come from all over the world to simply unwind, turn back the clock, and soak in the splendour of this phenomenal place.”
And, true to his word, on our final morning, when the clouds were blown apart to reveal a babyblue sky and the Assiniboine Valley in all its glory, we were treated to the spellbinding sight of Mount Assiniboine. It was icing on the cake for a great adventure. And, needless to say, I got the pictures — and today’s newspaper — to prove it.
IF YOU GO
The winter season at Assiniboine Lodge runs from mid-February to early April. To book your adventure visit www.assiniboinelodge.com.
Need ski touring gear? Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC) in Calgary is a great place to rent. Visit their store in downtown Calgary or check out www.mec.ca to find out more.