NATURE WEAVES MAGIC IN CHURCHILL
‘Polar bear capital of the world’ is a fascinating dream destination for wildlife lovers
A large male polar bear had made a bed in some dried grass at the edge of the Hudson Bay and I could just see his back when the tundra buggy drove up and stopped nearby. His white fur provides camouflage when he hunts prey on ice flows, but it can also make him difficult to spot on land. He blended in perfectly with the rocks and boulders strewn around the shoreline. Suddenly, he sat up, stretched and yawned and 20 camera shutters inside the tundra buggy went off all at once. We were wildlife paparazzi.
When slushy ice starts to form in Hudson Bay, polar bears begin to gather near Churchill, Man. Hudson Bay is part of a large inland sea system where freshwater and Arctic marine sea water mix. The lower salt concentration in the water allows ice to form sooner than it does in other parts of the Arctic. The bears don’t understand the science, but for thousands of years they’ve known they can access the sea ice sooner in this particular place. A mass migration of polar bears occurs every year in October and November where the tiny town of Churchill has dubbed itself “the polar bear capital of the world.”
The unique features of Hudson Bay have also attracted another kind of mass migration. From mid-June to mid- September, more than 57,000 beluga whales gather here. The warm water provides protection from predators as they give birth to young, feed and rub their bellies on rocks in the surrounding river estuaries to assist with moulting dead skin — a beluga spa of sorts.
It’s one of the best spots in Canada to see and study Arctic species and the non-profit Churchill Northern Studies Centre is a key support facility for researchers. Located 23 kilometres outside Churchill, the LEED silver-certified centre has research labs, dormitories, a cafeteria and other facilities that are used by scientists and visitors.
“I couldn’t do my research without the Churchill Northern Studies Centre,” asserted Nick Lunn, a scientist with Environment and Climate Change Canada. Lunn has been studying polar bear ecology and Arctic marine ecosystems for more than 30 years and he made the comment during an educational presentation for visitors on a learning vacation at the centre.
Shortly after arriving, I unpacked my bag, found my bunk bed and settled into a dorm room with two roommates — Lois and Riel, a grandmother from B.C. who was travelling with her adult granddaughter. There’s nothing pretentious about this place. Visitors stay in the same kind of dorm rooms that scientists do and use shared bathroom facilities. Those who smoke do so at their own risk — outside the main doors where a polar bear might walk by.
Each learning tour is hosted by a different scientist. That scientist accompanies tour participants on wildlife excursions and provides lectures on research. Stephen Petersen, head of conservation and research at Assiniboine Park Zoo in Winnipeg, led the Lords of the Arctic tour that I participated in.
Over the course of a week, we enjoyed a guided hike, explored the town, went on a helicopter tour, and spent two days on a Tundra Buggy, a unique vehicle that allows for safe travel and viewing of polar bears. When we weren’t exploring, there were educational presentations from Petersen and other scientists as well as a cultural talk by a Dene First Nations elder.
We saw plenty of polar bears and it was wonderful to experience the Arctic and learn about it from someone who had dedicated a lifetime to its study. It’s no secret that scientists are concerned about the effects of global warming on the polar bear population of Churchill. These beautiful creatures need sea ice to survive. It was also fascinating to see other species up close like Arctic fox, red fox, Arctic hare, ptarmigan and snowy owl to name a few.
Churchill is a wildlife lover’s dream destination, but there’s something less tangible about it that sticks with you long after you leave and makes you want to go back. There’s a special kind of beauty to be found in the landscape, but the real beauty is found in the creatures and people who struggle and survive there.
IF YOU GO:
Churchill Northern Studies Centre offers learning vacations year-round. The “Lords of the Arctic” tour described here costs $3,415 per person and includes dormitory-style accommodations, meals, airport/train shuttle, local tours, wildlife viewing opportunities and presentations. Tours at peak migration times sell out and should be booked well in advance.
Getting to Churchill is a challenge. The rail line is currently down and there are no roads leading there. First Air offers direct flights from Winnipeg to Churchill starting at about $1,350 per person return.