LESSONS FROM MY FIVE YEARS OF WINE WRITING …
Today marks five years since I started writing about wines for the Calgary Herald. It has been an awesome adventure, sharing stories and wines that have impressed me.
I have tasted hundreds and hundreds of wines over that time. Often the hardest part is choosing which three or four to include in each column.
I thought I would start today by reflecting on some of the things I have learned after a few years of regular tasting at home, events, wineries and competitions. I hope some of these insights might be useful.
FIND VALUE IN LESSERKNOWN REGIONS
Let’s face it, it’s tough to find great prices in places like Napa Valley, Bordeaux and Burgundy. These are rock star regions with massive followings and reputations. But if you go a bit off the beaten path, you can find very good wines at fair prices. Look to places like South America, Greece, southern Italy, Spain, Portugal and South Africa. There are outstanding wines being made in these regions at very palatable prices. They might use grapes you are less familiar with, but the adventure is so much fun. Jump in!
ORGANIC WINES OFTEN TASTE BETTER
Through the years I’ve noticed a lot of organic or biodynamic wines boast a vibrancy, almost like an electricity or purity on the palate, that I find very pleasing. While this doesn’t mean all organic wines are better, wellmade wines done organically often knock it out of the park. Finding out just what is organic can be a challenge, though. Many producers don’t label their wines as organic. The certification process is expensive and cumbersome, so some wineries follow organic farming practices but keep it on the down-low. If you are in a tasting room, ask about their farming practices. You might be surprised how many wineries avoid pesticides whenever possible. It is definitely a growing trend in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.
SERVING TEMPERATURE IS IMPORTANT
Nothing makes a great red wine seem flabby and dead more than serving it at too warm a temperature. While the rule of thumb for red has always been room temperature, our homes are much warmer than back in the day when we relied on wood or coal. I like to put my reds in the fridge for 15 minutes or so before serving to take the edge off. A little bit of cooling makes the acid appear more prominent, which is a good thing. Generally, the lighter bodied the red, the cooler you can serve it. The same rule applies in reverse for white wines. Take bigger-bodied or oakier whites such as Chardonnay, Viognier or Alsatian-style Pinot Gris out of the fridge for 15 minutes before you serve them. You will find they have more to offer as they warm up a bit.
DON’T WORRY ABOUT SPECIAL GLASSES
Glass companies like to say every wine tastes better in its tailor-made glass. That is marketing. I find a nice-sized Bordeauxstyle glass with high sides that are tapered slightly inward at the top works great for most wines, even sparkling wines. Narrower white wine glasses are even better for bubblies. The bowl-shaped coupe, which is making a comeback, is not great for sparklers. The wines lose their bubbles faster, it’s hard to get a good whiff of the wine’s aromas and I find them harder to drink from. But maybe that’s just me. Here are some wines that caught my eye this month.
Anciano 2008 Gran Reserva Tempranillo Valdepenas, Spain
When it comes to quality for price, Spain is a great go-to nation. This tasty Tempranillo is from Valdepenas, in the southcentral part of the country, just below La Mancha, Spain’s biggest wine region.
Tempranillo is the grape of choice in Valdepenas, where it is also known as Cencibel. This Anciano is a decade old, but you would never know. It is fresh with vibrant fruit flavours and a good dose of oak from extended aging. Medium-bodied and dry, it boasts soft tannins and a pleasant finish. The flavours include cherry, vanilla, chopped herbs like rosemary, strawberry and a bit of mocha.
Price: Around $15. It is widely available. Check your nearest liquor store.
Drink: Now. Try it with paprika chicken, paella or oxtail stew. Cork; 13 per cent.
1884 2015 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina
The 1884 wines from Escorihuela Gascon mark the year Miguel Escorihuela Gascón started his Argentine winery. Mediumbodied and with a touch of sweetness, this Cabernet Sauvignon offers flavours of blackcurrant, leather, black cherry, blackberry and a touch of dill.
It’s an easy drinking, with lots of fruit flavours and enough tannins to keep everything in balance.
Price: About $19. It is widely available. Check your nearest liquor store. Drink: Now. Try it with burgers, a meaty pizza or shepherd’s pie. Cork; 13.5 per cent alc./vol.
Dirty Laundry Vineyard 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon British Columbia
A hot growing season that started early, 2015 has proven to be an outstanding vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon and big red blends. This bottle from Dirty Laundry Vineyard combines grapes from two B.C. regions. The Cab Sauv, which makes 85 per cent of the wine, comes from the Similkameen Valley, while a 15 per cent dose of Merlot comes from the Okanagan.
Medium-full bodied, this rich, ripe red offers flavours of blackcurrant, black cherry, strawberry, vanilla and green pepper.
Price: About $30. Look for it at B.K. Liquor, Liquor Depot at Brentwood, Safeway Liquor, Skyway Wine and Liquor, Sobeys Liquor, Willow Park Wines & Spirits, Zyn the Wine Market. Drink: Now with a bit of time in a decanter, or age it for a couple of years. This big bold wine is made for grilled meats. Bring out the steak or lamb. Screw cap; 14 per cent alc./vol. Contact Darren Oleksyn at dm.oleksyn@gmail.com or follow him on Twitter: @doleksyn. Looking for a specific wine mentioned here? Because wine inventories are always in flux, call the store before you go. Liquorconnect.com can tell you stores that have carried the wines.