What’s the best way to beat winter rust?
For those who strive to be accurate in their communications, there are always a few terms that set their teeth on edge. For automotive enthusiasts, the phrase “engine tune-up” springs to mind, because it’s been decades since any automaker produced a product you could actually “tune” or adjust for better running. These days, it’s simply a matter of replacing parts and repairing circuits.
Rustproofing is another term that always belonged in the trash, because if you drive a vehicle year-round in this country, there is nothing you can do to proof it against corrosion. About the best you can do is slow things down to a pace that hopefully lets your vehicle outlast its payments.
Rustproofing — sorry, corrosion-slowing — can be divided into two categories: Electronic modules and spray treatments. Of the latter, they can be subdivided into one-time applications and annual treatments.
Electronic modules are promoted to be capable of working on the sacrificial anode cathodic protection theory. This protection is created by using a metal alloy (usually zinc-laden) with a more negative electrochemical potential than the other metal it will be used to protect. The sacrificial anode will be consumed in place of the metal it is protecting, which is why it is referred to as a “sacrificial” anode. There have been volumes written on the topic and whether or not this type of corrosion slowing is worth it.
If you really want to know the secret of corrosion slowing, take a look around you during your regular commute and pick out the oldest vehicle you can see with the least amount of rust showing. Then, take a look at the bottoms of the doors on that rare beast and you’ll inevitably see some grime collecting in those areas, as well as other low spots on the body.
Don’t worry about having to ask the owner what type of treatment they use. The answer will always be the same: Annual spray inhibitors, from either an independent shop or a larger chain. This lower staining is from road grit adhering to the overspray film. And save for parking your ride inside to hibernate, this is the best way to slow down corrosion.
If you want to minimize the mess of spray drippings on your driveway, get your annual treatment done in the cooler days of fall or early spring. One-time treatments, no matter how well done initially or how great the spray is, won’t provide the same protection as annual applications.
But can’t we just wash the corrosion-causers away? No. Unless you can direct a high pressure stream of water into every nook, cranny and body seam, you can’t simply rinse your troubles away. Getting a good car wash done on nicer days throughout the winter won’t hurt, but it won’t replace anti-corrosion treatments. If you’re using an automated wash — touchless is best — take advantage of the undercarriage blast feature. And if you’re going to keep your ride past its corrosion warranty, get it treated.