B.C. WINERIES WRAP UP A SUCCESSFUL HARVEST
To say John Skinner is excited about the Okanagan Valley’s 2018 grape harvest is an understatement.
Skinner, the owner of Painted Rock Estate Winery, which is perched in a glorious spot above Skaha Lake, south of Penticton, said a warm spring, moderate summer and outstanding October have put the grapes on a stellar path toward ripeness and flavour development.
Skinner said Alain Sutre, Painted Rock’s full-time consultant from Bordeaux, proclaimed it, “one of the finest cool-climate vintages he’s ever seen.” Harvest dates are tracking on schedule with past vintages for the winery, which started with its first plantings in 2005.
The optimism of Skinner and his team about the growing season is pretty much echoed from north to south.
Near Oliver, Hester Creek senior winemaker Rob Summers credited a warmer May and June with putting the growing season ahead of schedule. He said harvest started 10 days earlier than usual, and the crop is about 10 per cent larger than the norm.
While wildfires in August again brought persistent smoke to the valley, Summers said so far they have not noticed any problems from smoke taint. At Painted Rock, Skinner said they left more leaves on the vines than normal so no soot would fall on the fruit. Sutre felt if ash sat on the grapes, smoke flavours could be absorbed into the skins.
The biggest problem for Summers was that the larger crops of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon all ripened at similar times, leading to some challenges in the winery to find tanks for all the grapes.
Up north, in the new Thompson Valley appellation near Kamloops, Monte Creek Ranch winemaker Galen Barnhardt said the vintage got off to a rocketing start.
“May started out super hot. Reports have been indicating that it was actually the hottest May on record,” said Barnhardt. “Things took an interesting turn with more moderate temperatures in July and August. This allowed our grapes time for flavour development without the stress of heat. The acidity levels in the 2018 vintage are exceptional and we expect this will translate to beautiful wines.”
Expecting an average-sized crop, Barnhardt said they began harvest on Aug. 22 and were likely to wrap up by the end of October.
In the Similkameen Valley, just west of the southern Okanagan Valley, Clos du Soleil winemaker and managing director Michael Clark said the harvest was progressing slowly, but quality was excellent.
“The more moderate temperatures we had this August mean that we had time for flavour development, with no heat stress on the vines, and acidity levels are beautiful,” said Clark, in a news release from the British Columbia Wine Institute.
It will be at least six months until the first 2018 whites start showing up in the market, and even longer for the reds to appear. For now, here are a few wines from previous vintages that are worth checking out.
Cheers to a successful season.
MONTE CREEK RANCH
2016
Hands Up Red
British Columbia
This red blend combines Marquette and Frontenac Noir from Monte Creek’s cooler Thompson Okanagan vineyards with Merlot from Keremeos and Oliver in the warmer southern part of the province.
Medium-bodied and dry, with moderate tannins, this is an easydrinking red with flavours of plum, tobacco, wild strawberry, black cherry and spice.
Price: About $20. Look for it at Buzz Buddy Liquor Wine Spirits Beer, Cellar Fine Wines and Spirits, Crowfoot Liquor Store, Kensington Liquor Cellar, Lakeside Liquor, MH Liquor, Skyway Liquor, Sobeys Liquor, Sundance Wine Market, Varsity Wine Merchants, and Zyn the Wine Market.
Drink: Now. Try it with a meaty pizza, hamburgers or beef stew. Screw cap; 13.8 per cent alc./vol.
HESTER CREEK
2015
Block 3 Cabernet Franc Reserve Golden Mile Bench, British Columbia
Hester Creek is fortunate to own some of the oldest vineyards in the Okanagan Valley, including the 50-year-old Cabernet Franc vines that produce this delicious red.
As vines get older they struggle more to produce fruit, often leading to smaller grapes with more concentrated flavours. That’s why old vines are treasured among winemakers.
This Cab Franc delivers ripe, deep flavours of black cherry, blackberry, vanilla and mesquite. It’s big, bold and brash.
Price: $35. It has been sold at Cloud 9 Liquor Store, Liquor Depot at Brentwood, and Willow Park Wines and Spirits. Drink: In the next five years. Duck breast or grilled lamb would be a great match. Cork; 14.5 per cent alc./vol.
PAINTED ROCK ESTATE WINERY
2015
Red Icon
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
The hot 2015 vintage was a tough one. The fruit ripened at a rapid pace. Maybe too fast. The heat spiked sugar levels in some grapes, leading to wines that were out of balance and jammy.
But that wasn’t a problem with Red Icon, the top-tier bottle from Painted Rock. A blend of 45 per cent Merlot, 24 per cent Cabernet Franc, 11 per cent Malbec, 11 per cent Petit Verdot and nine per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine is plush and opulent, with a balance between flavour, sugar, acid and tannin.
Built to last, look for flavours of blackcurrant, black cherry, mocha, leather, vanilla and spice. The tannins are ripe and the finish is long. It is a rock-solid stunner.
Price: $67. Check for it at Cloud 9 Liquor Store, Craft Cellars, Highlander Wine and Spirits, Richmond Hill Wines, Rocky Mountain Wine Spirits and Beer, Sobeys Liquor in Cranston, Truvé Wines, and Zyn the Wine Market.
Drink: This wine could age for up to eight years. If opening it now, decant it for a couple of hours. Enjoy it with beef tenderloin, veal chops or lamb chops. Cork; 14.6 per cent alc./vol.
Contact Darren Oleksyn at dm.oleksyn@gmail.com or follow him on Twitter: @doleksyn. Looking for a specific wine mentioned here? Because wine inventories are always in flux, it’s a good idea to call the store before you go. Liquorconnect. com can give you an idea of stores that have carried the wines.