B.C. WINE INDUSTRY IS HUMMING ALONG
Growing up in Montreal in the 1960s and ’70s, I was aware of two products that defined Canada’s contribution to the world of alcohol: beer (Molson Export for the anglophiles and Labatt 50 for the francophones) and rye, Canadian Club to be precise, that was typically tempered with ginger ale.
At that time, B.C.’s wine industry was nought but a twinkle in Harry McWatters’ eye, but times have changed. The dream of the Okanagan becoming Canada’s Napa north — so to speak — has come to fruition. As the wines have improved — in leaps and bounds — so, too, have the dining and accommodation options.
The desire to live in a part of the country that offers fruit farms, mild winters, beautiful lakes and a burgeoning wine industry has driven a significant amount of investment to the region, and in doing so has pushed land prices up to roughly $200,000 an acre, now among the most expensive agricultural land in the world.
A few weeks back, I had the pleasure of a week of Okanagan wine exploration with a group that included Masters of Wine, Master Sommeliers, journalists and other assorted wine experts from all over the globe.
The week culminated with a tasting known as the Judgement of B.C., whereby B.C. wines are poured in a blind format alongside benchmark examples from other parts of the world. As much as I am not fond of judging wines or wine as competition, the tasting put aside any doubts that B.C. can compete on a world stage.
Two of the wines I have recommended below, Poplar Grove Legacy and Laughing Stock Vineyards Portfolio Red, finished first and second respectively, beating out such stars as Dominus ($126) and Chateau d’Armailhac ($90), for example.
One of the most notable developments in B.C. is the creation of geographical indications (GIs) and sub- GIs. They chose this denomination based on geographical and geological attributes rather than municipal boundaries, such as the ones you would encounter in regions such as Napa Valley, for example. No appellation system is perfect, but they are helpful to consumers who care about the provenance of the wines they drink.
There are currently two subGIs in the Okanagan — Golden Mile Bench and the newly anointed Okanagan Falls. There will be more to come.
If this were France, that process would take about 10 years or so, thankfully things move a little faster in new world wine regions. Naramata will likely be next in line, this is a sub-region that produces some of the best wines in the valley and many of my personal favourites, including the top two wines from the competition.
The Okanagan has always been a popular spot to park yourself for a few weeks in the summer and fall.
I have been impressed by the dining options of late, especially some of the ones situated within the wineries, a very Napa-like concept.
Should you find yourself in Penticton, I highly recommend you stop for a bite at Time Winery, situated in the heart of the town in a former movie house. Time is the brainchild of McWatters, an Okanagan pioneer and one of the true legends in the Canadian wine industry.
He has been involved in the wine business since the late ’60s and is a founding member of the BC Wine Institute and Sumac Estate Winery (founded in 1980). Time is a very modern concept, both a working winery and restaurant in the middle of old Penticton.
There are many other winery dining options that include Lake Breeze, Hillside Winery, Liquidity, Summerhill, Quail’s Gate, Mission Hill and 50th Parallel, to name but a few.
One of the advantages of touring B.C. wine country is that prices tend to be cheaper there as you can buy direct from the wineries. In Alberta, the same wines go through both an importer and retailer which adds to the costs. In most cases, the difference is negligible, but with the pricier wines it can be significant.
Here are a few to try, including the two top picks from the judgment tasting.
POPLAR GROVE LEGACY 2014 — $65
The big winner from the Judgement of B.C. does not come cheap but it outshone wines costing twice as much, making it worthy of consideration.
The 2014 vintage turned out very well in the Okanagan; it was very warm, and that heat carried on into the fall which is crucial for getting Cabernet Sauvignon ripe, not always easy to do in this part of the world. There is some great Bordeaux-like structure and flavour behind this wine backed by a nice level of acidity. It should improve with time.
LAUGHING STOCK VINEYARDS PORTFOLIO RED 2016 — $54
It was the 2015 vintage that took the No. 2 spot, but the wine has transitioned to 2016 in Alberta; I have tasted both and there is a good consistency between the vintages.
When I first tasted this wine years ago it was an eye-opener for me, a Bordeaux blend from right next door that was ripe, balanced and delicious.
That still rings true.
LIQUIDITY VIOGNIER 2015 — $26
Liquidity is situated in Okanagan Falls in a striking modern structure that also features a bistro.
They are a relative newcomer, but they are getting things right; the Viognier is classically styled with tropical and stone fruits tied together with acidity that lends the wine a juicy mouth feel.
MEYER TRIBUTE SERIES CHARDONNAY 2016 — $35
Meyer has been producing some of the best examples of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the valley for some time now and I was really struck with this single vineyard example, a Meursault-like beauty that is nothing short of world class.
During my week in the Okanagan, I was most impressed with the white varietals I tasted, Chardonnay and Riesling in particular, along with Pinot Noir.
The latest efforts from JAK Meyer and crew demonstrate that these varietals have a bright future from this part of the world.
Full results of the tasting can be viewed online at winebc.com:
Looking for wine in Alberta? Go to liquorconnect.com
Geoff Last is a longtime Calgary wine merchant, writer and broadcaster and a regular contributor to City Palate Magazine and other publications. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks and was recently awarded a fellowship to the Symposium of Professional Wine Writers based in Napa Valley.