MOUNTAINS OF SOLITUDE
Escape crowds at Crowsnest Pass
When we finally reached the summit of Turtle Mountain — after a three-hour grunt up the rocky ridge that rises from the town of Blairmore — we were swarmed by an unruly mass of cold, grey cloud. The wind picked up, the temperature dropped, and sheets of sleet blasted down on us in waves. After the obligatory high-fives and a few shivering selfies, we made an easy call: let’s get the heck back down. After all, there was plenty more to see and do in the Crowsnest Pass.
However, halfway down the mountain — the elevation gain is a whopping 740 metres on this “difficult” hike — the angry clouds parted and brilliant beams of light streamed through. It was quite a sight and, considering my legs were all but dead from the descent, I had ample reason to stop on an aerie ledge, take a much-needed breather, and photograph the scene.
While hiking to the top of Turtle Mountain is certainly a bucket-list activity in the Crowsnest Pass (it’s not for the faint of heart; my legs were sore for four days after the gruelling five-hour hike), there is plenty of outdoor adventure to experience in this underrated corner of the province.
First, in case you’re partial to the more famous vistas found in Banff or Lake Louise, know this: the mountain scenes found in the Crowsnest Pass, located approximately 230 kilometres southwest of Calgary, are every bit as good. And, for aficionados of pure mountain adventure, especially those who prefer to “play” without the crowds that are common in our national parks, the Crowsnest Pass area is a little slice of heaven.
The region has it all: stellar hikes, world-class mountain biking, fly-fishing that’s pure gold, a new mountain golf course that’s getting rave reviews, fascinating coal mining history, excellent kayaking and paddleboarding opportunities, and much more. Needless to say, a weekend in “The Pass” will hardly do it justice. But, then again, with the lack of crowds and the proximity of many attractions and recreation areas, you can certainly knock off a number of activities in a fairly short period of time.
For golfers, a four-hour commitment at the completely redesigned Crowsnest Pass Golf Club will be time well spent. Due to nearby mining operations, the course recently closed the old nine along the highway and cut the ribbon on nine new holes, which were designed by Canmore-based architect Gary Browning. The new holes serve up spectacular mountain views and are situated well off the highway in gently rolling, forested terrain that feels miles from civilization. In addition, a spacious timber-framed clubhouse, a stunning new driving range, and significant changes and enhancements on the existing nine now make the Crowsnest Pass Golf Club one of the premier 18hole mountain golf experiences in Canada.
Mountain bikers who are smitten with smooth, machine-made, single-track garnished with drops, berms, bridges, and other technical features will love the trails at Pass Powderkeg, the local two-lift ski hill.
Trails such as Berma- Grin, Buck 50, and the beginner-friendly Little Shred Riding Hood are worth loading the bikes and travelling a considerable distance to ride. Advanced and expert riders who don’t mind a leg-burning climb, capped off with a thrilling, white-knuckle descent to the valley bottom, should set their sights on Big Bear, an epic alpine ride that’s located just west of Blairmore on Saddle Mountain.
“It’s not really a secret anymore how good the riding is in the Crowsnest Pass,” says Karey Watanabe, founder and head coach of Sweet Riders, a fast-growing company that offers clinics and guided rides in the region. “We have a solid base of local riders and volunteers who are always building new trails. The riding is close and convenient and there is something for every level of rider.”
Whether you’re fly-fishing in the Crowsnest River, smashing golf balls against Crowsnest Mountain at the golf course, or “shredding the gnar” on the local bike trails, stirring mountain views are going to accompany you on every adventure. And, if you’re willing to work a little harder, go a little “above and beyond,” the views get even better.
For example, during my brief and stormy stay on the South Summit on Turtle Mountain, the bird’s-eye view at the top of Frank Slide — the catastrophic 1903 rock slide that buried the town of Frank and killed more than 100 people — was one of the most powerful experiences I’ve had on a mountain. (Regardless if you do the hike or not, exploring the tragic story of the slide and the region’s fascinating mining history at the Frank Slide Interpretive Center is a must).
But, coming down the mountain — with laserlike rays burning through the valley and illuminating the upper flank of Crowsnest Mountain — the drama didn’t end. And so, alone on the mountain, I just soaked it all in. And thought, just maybe, I should buy myself a little cabin in the woods somewhere in the valley and stay for the long haul.