Up your cocktail game with these distinct gins
Gin, once known as Mother’s Ruin in the U.K. because of the damage it wrought, is set to double in sales this year (in the U.K), and other gin-swilling nations are probably not far behind. Gin is a neutral spirit distilled from grain and then redistilled with the (mandatory) juniper and other botanicals. EU laws dictate that for basic gin the flavouring compounds may be added after the distillation process, but for the Distilled and London styles, the botanicals must be included in the distillation, and these laws are widely adhered to elsewhere. In addition, the London Dry style must contain less than 0.1 grams of sugar per litre. At one time all gin was made in a pot still — and many of the premium versions still are — but the creation of the continuous still introduced a more affordable process that is now commonplace.
When summer weather arrives, there a few cocktails as thirst-quenching as a gin and tonic, and gone are the days when Canada Dry was the only option for tonic water. A good tonic — such as Fever Tree,
Q, Eau Claire, Fentiman’s and Phillips, for example — makes a big difference and most are widely available now. These tend to be less sweet than the big supermarket brands, which I find makes for a more bracing drink. Because of the inclusion of a wide array of botanicals, there are some very distinctive styles of gin to choose from; some are better suited to a martini, for example, rather than a G & T. Here are some great examples to choose from: Victoria Distillers Empress Gin — $51
Blue gin? Yes, it’s blue thanks to an infusion of butterfly pea blossom in the mix. Named after Victoria’s Fairmont Empress Hotel — and their famous tea service — this pot-stilled gin does indeed have a noticeable tea note (pea blossom is used in the hotel’s custom blended teas) alongside the more traditional gin flavours. The blue turns pinkish once it is mixed with tonic; all in all, a distinctive gin in every way.
Confluence Manchester Dry Gin — $50
Situated in Calgary’s Manchester area, Confluence is fairly new but are doing a great job with their gin and vodka. The gin is done in a London Dry style and includes some local specialties in the form of Saskatoon berries and wild rose. The result is nicely balanced gin that would do well in a G & T or a martini, a welcome addition to the burgeoning local distilling scene.
Imea Gineprina d’olanda Gin — $73
This Italian gin is on the pricey side but it is unique by today’s standards, a style that was created as a tribute to the original Netherland gins that pervaded Italy in the 1800s. Juniper is complemented by aniseed, clove, cinnamon and mace and, as such, it has a distinct Christmas cake flavour — in a good way — and is best served in a martini format or other cocktails where these spice elements would be desirable. I tried it in a G & T and it was good, but I would suggest you forgo the lime as it clashed with the spices somewhat.
Mcqueen and the Violet Fog — $43
This new entry hails from Brazil, an excellent pot-stilled gin that employs 21 botanicals that includes basil, rosemary, fennel, acai, star anise and calamansi (a citrus fruit similar to lime). It has a creamy texture and a complex flavour profile, a top class gin at home in just about any format you choose. Dingle Gin — $54
This pot-stilled Irish gin hails from Dingle, Ireland, and it’s a beauty; botanicals include rowan berry, fuchsia, bog myrtle, heather, chervil, hawthorn, angelica and coriander. It has come out on top in numerous spirit competitions around the world, a firstrate entry in the ever-widening gin realm.
Gin Mare — $42
Spain is awash in gin and vermouth and Gin Mare is one of Spain’s best. It’s a Mediterranean style which means it is infused with olives, thyme, rosemary, basil, lemon and orange. Seville oranges and Lleida lemons are employed, both specialty fruits in Spain, and the gin has a fairly intense citrus component, making it ideal in a G & T. It is possibly my favourite summer gin.
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Geoff Last is a longtime Calgary wine merchant, writer and broadcaster and a regular contributor to City Palate Magazine and other publications. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks and was recently awarded a fellowship to the Symposium of Professional Wine Writers based in Napa Valley.