DUTCH OVEN A KITCHEN STAPLE
Use it to braise, boil, fry and bake ... you name it, this cooking contraption can make it
One of the most recurring questions I get is, “What can I do with my Dutch oven?”
Dutch ovens of a certain cachet, namely Le Creuset, are big-splurge investments, and no one wants to mess up a pricey piece.
“I love them,” says cookbook author Molly Stevens, who has seven. “They are just so bulletproof.”
As to the name? Nate Collier, Le Creuset’s director of marketing communications, says one theory involves an English manufacturer who went to the Netherlands, saw how the pot was cast and named it Dutch.
Today, most recipes assume a Dutch oven is made of cast iron, enamelled or uncoated, although you can find stainless steel and ceramic models, too.
There are many reasons to add a Dutch oven to your arsenal. I love that it can be used on the stove top and in the oven.
It’s ideal for both searing or slow cooking. If you go with an enamelled one, you get food that’s easier to release and a surface that’s simpler to maintain. Dutch ovens also make beautiful serving pieces.
CHOOSING A DUTCH OVEN
Consider its weight, says Stevens, especially if you struggle to lift heavy objects. In America’s Test Kitchen, the heaviest model clocked in at more than 18 pounds (8 kg).
Check out models in the store so you can gauge the weight and how easy it is to grip the lid and handles when you’re wearing oven mitts.
Rigorous ATK equipment testers suggest that thicker pots are better, as thinner ones can scorch food. Lighter-coloured surfaces, such as enamel, a type of glass, let you monitor browning better.
You want plenty of surface area for browning in as few batches as possible, so consider a wider, shorter pot rather than a taller, narrower one.
Oval Dutch ovens are just as effective as round ones, as long as you give them sufficient time to preheat. Ovals might limit what else you can fit on your stovetop on adjacent burners.
Stevens says a 5 1/2-quart (6.2-L) model is a great starter, and close to a decade into owning one, I have seldom found myself limited by the smaller size. ATK favours models that hold at least 7 quarts (8 L).
At typically well over $300, a Le Creuset is not cheap (Staub is another popular high-end brand), as ATK has pointed out in routinely naming the brand its top pick for Dutch ovens.
But, given that it can last for generations, the investment might be easier to swallow. Collier suggests visiting an outlet location or pouncing on sales.
That being said, ATK named Cuisinart, which retails for closer to $100, as its best buy. Lodge and Crock-pot are also more affordable. Newer brands, such as Great Jones, have stylish, lower-price options, too.
CARE AND TIPS
Enamelled cast iron can take a lot, but keep a few things in mind. (If you have “raw” cast iron, treat it as you would a skillet.)
Like glass such as Pyrex, enamel can be subject to thermal shock when exposed to dramatic temperature changes.
Never heat an empty enamelled Dutch oven on the stove top, although Collier confirms it’s perfectly safe to preheat it in the oven with a gradual increase in temperature.
You also want to stay away from high heat, except for boiling.
Be sure the lid and knob are oven-safe.
Stevens uses wooden utensils to protect the enamel. If you’re scraping up flavourful browning on the bottom of the pot, definitely stick with wood, nylon or silicone.
You can, however, use metal utensils, especially for serving,
Collier says. You may see marks left behind on the enamel, but it’s cosmetic. Cleaners can help restore the surface. An inadvertent chip or two is not the end of the world and will not render the pot unusable.
Soap and water can handle most cleaning. An abrasive such as Barkeepers Friend can help remove caked-on food and some stains. If you’re really disconcerted by discolouring, ATK has found success with an overnight soak with a 3-to-1 solution of water and bleach, which it says was approved by Le Creuset.
OBVIOUS WAYS TO USE IT
Stevens loves braising. You can get amazingly tender and tasty meat, whether it’s pot roast, short ribs or chicken. It also lends itself to something like overnight baked beans.
Soups, chilies and stews are a given. But I can’t recommend Dutch oven bread enough, either, as you get a superb crust.
Also don’t be afraid to use your Dutch oven as a pot. Mine is my go-to for boiling pasta and making broth. Stevens uses a little one for making rice. They’re not too precious to use every day. Promise.
LESS OBVIOUS WAYS TO USE IT
Try frying, shallow or deep. High sides reduce splattering and heat retention means it’s easier to manage the temperature of the oil. Plus, it reduces waiting time between batches. So go ahead and make that fried chicken! Or falafel!
ATK offers a number of clever ideas, including roasting a side of vegetables on the overturned lid of a Dutch oven while your main course braises below.
A Dutch oven’s ability to maintain a steady temperature also works when it’s cold. If you’re serving a chilled or composed salad, Collier recommends serving it in a Dutch oven. Pop it in the fridge or freezer, or fill it with ice water first.
One of my favourite Julia Child anecdotes involves her quest to achieve a perfect French baguette in a home oven. It took a year, but in her trademark doggedness, she did it.
An important part of an authentic bread: the crust. And key to that was replicating the heat and steam of a professional oven. The answer lay in lining the oven with quarry tiles and dropping a hot brick in a pan of water.
Thankfully, the modern answer lies in the Dutch oven. I turned to Jim Lahey, the baker and cookbook author who helped turn no-knead bread into a mainstream concept.
The oven within the oven makes all the difference.
The Washington Post