Calgary Herald

Restaurate­urs finding ways to keep us fed in pandemic

Many renowned independen­t kitchens have had to adjust to challengin­g times

- ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH Elizabeth Chorney-booth can be reached at elizabooth@gmail.com. Follow her on Twitter at @elizabooth­y or Instagram at @elizabooth

While there is a lot of uncertaint­y around the COVID-19 pandemic, one thing is certain: The effect on Calgary’s restaurant­s will be profound. As many restaurant­s close their dining rooms to ensure social distancing, local business owners are trying innovative ways to keep Calgarians fed while generating at least some revenue.

For the most part, that means takeout. Calgary is already set up with many ghost kitchens

(i.e. restaurant­s that exist only for takeout) and places that rely on delivery outfits such as Door Dash and Skip the Dishes. Many of our renowned independen­t restaurant­s, however, have previously resisted joining the delivery craze because their food doesn’t travel particular­ly well. But times, of course, have suddenly and quite drasticall­y changed.

Modern Steak has found itself in a unique position in that it was already planning to launch its Mburger takeout service this week, long before COVID-19 was a concern. Owner Stephen Deere didn’t want to ruin the integrity of his premium ranch-specific Alberta steaks by packing them in to-go boxes, but he figured he could develop a travel-ready burger that reflected his restaurant’s level of quality and execution.

Sourced from Benchmark Angus, the burger patties are made of a blend of short-rib, chuck and brisket and go for a very reasonable $7.95 ($10.95 for a double and $13.95 for a triple). The short menu also includes veggie burgers ($8.49), wagyu hotdogs ($7.95), traditiona­l sides and milkshakes ($6).

Mburger is available through both Door Dash and Skip the Dishes or via pickup at the Stephen Avenue Modern Steak location (100 8th Ave. S.E.) if you call ahead at 403-244-3600. For more informatio­n, visit modernburg­er.ca.

But not all local restaurant­s have the infrastruc­ture in place to pivot to takeout so easily, though it doesn’t mean they aren’t trying to do something to keep their kitchens going.

Dandy Brewing Co. (2003 11th St. S.E.) is delivering its beer directly to home customers, and while it isn’t doing food delivery at this time, chef Merritt Gordon is keeping his kitchen open so customers can grab a to-go snack if they stop into the tasting room to pick up beer themselves.

Again, Gordon was concerned about how well his regular menu would travel, so he’s focusing on easily packed comfort foods, including his very popular hot chicken sandwich on white bread with gravy and peas

($16), lentil and roasted garlic soup ($10), and an elk spaghetti Bolognese ($19).

The team at Bar Von Der Fels (1005A 1st St. S.W.) has a similar problem. Their regular menu is almost impossible to pack up and they don’t have experience running a takeout business, but owner Will Trow is charging forward and figuring things out as he goes.

Chef Doug King has developed an entirely new small-plates menu with items such as grits with snow crab and grilled peppers ($21) and a fennel, apple, mortadella and brie salad ($12) that can be ordered à la carte or as part of a family-style meal that includes a whole nine-piece menu ($70 for two people).

Bar Von Der Fels is also facilitati­ng takeout with its pop-up partner Pizzaface, with pizzas ranging from $22 to $26. Both menus will be delivered within a five-kilometre radius and are also available for pickup (wine is also available with pickup). Note that the kitchen’s capacity is quite small, so it is best to call well in advance.

These are just a few of the restaurant­s launching delivery or curbside pickup operations, in addition to the hundreds of local spots that have always had takeout. At press time, Charcut, Flores and Pine, Cassis, Cravings, Una Pizza and Wine, Annabelle’s Kitchen, Brasserie

Kensington, Market, Vin Room, Empire Provisions, Cookbook Company, Our Daily Brett, Sauce Italian Market, and others were experiment­ing with what might work for them.

Naturally, each restaurant’s offerings are subject to change, so check with them (Instagram seems to be the medium for takeout announceme­nts) before planning your dinner. And exercise patience, as many of these restaurant­s are doing their best under extraordin­ary circumstan­ces.

Not all restaurant­s are opting for alternativ­e business solutions; many are choosing to temporaril­y close as they wait out this crisis. But, with rent to pay and payrolls to honour, those restaurant­s also need an immediate injection of cash, which is why many are asking loyal customers to purchase gift certificat­es for future use.

Nights and Weekends, for example, is running a gift certificat­e campaign with half of all proceeds going directly to temporaril­y laid-off staff (and a 20 per cent discount offered when gift cards are eventually redeemed).

To help facilitate the call for gift card sales, the teams behind Shelter, Fine Food Stop and the upcoming Orchard restaurant have set up a database called Eat Later, a directory of restaurant­s looking to sell gift cards during the COVID-19 crisis.

Restaurant­s can add themselves to the directory so that customers can shop for gift cards in one place. For more informatio­n, visit eatlater.ca.

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 ?? JIM WELLS ?? Stephen Deere, owner of Modern Steak, has developed a travel-ready burger that reflects his restaurant’s level of quality and execution.
JIM WELLS Stephen Deere, owner of Modern Steak, has developed a travel-ready burger that reflects his restaurant’s level of quality and execution.
 ?? AZIN GHAFFAR ?? Una Pizzeria on 17th Avenue S.W. is closed to diners because of the COVID-19 pandemic, but is open for pickup and delivery.
AZIN GHAFFAR Una Pizzeria on 17th Avenue S.W. is closed to diners because of the COVID-19 pandemic, but is open for pickup and delivery.
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