Calgary Herald

DESERT ADVENTURES

On the go in Scottsdale

- MICHELE JARVIE

There is no image of the American West more defining than the towering Saguaro cactus.

In light of its stature and longevity — some grow to be 200 years old — it seems almost unbecoming to be on gift shop T-shirts and fridge magnets. But the ubiquitous depiction is really a tribute to a plant that grows everywhere in Arizona but nowhere outside of the Sonoran Desert.

Some might say it’s also a fitting symbol of Arizonans themselves — a hardy bunch thriving in often unfavourab­le conditions. Temperatur­es can be about 20 C in winter but can soar to 40 C in summer while the state averages only 22 centimetre­s of rain a year.

In Scottsdale, residents have learned to cope by getting up early and staying out late to enjoy all the city has to offer. And they have some advice for Canadian travellers: This isn’t your grandparen­ts’ Arizona.

Active is the key word in this community northeast of Phoenix. While you could spend a week lounging by a pool or golfing a different course daily, you’d be missing out on plenty. Scottsdale’s reputation for luxury resorts, golf courses and spas is well-earned. But if you wander off the beaten path just a bit, you’ll find a whole other world waiting to be explored.

And this one requires a real sense of adventure, and some sturdy shoes. Give in and see Scottsdale from the seat of a bike, a boat, a saddle or even a basket if you’re brave enough.

HIKING IN THE MCDOWELL SONORAN PRESERVE

Lace up your hiking boots and head to the 30,500-acre (12,500-hectare) Mcdowell Sonoran Preserve. Here, five main trailheads connect to more than 320 kilometres of trails through the hills.

The parking lot can be packed early in the day with many locals doing the Gateway Loop before work but there’s plenty of space for all. Views of Scottsdale from the top are worth the effort to get there and there’s never a shortage of cacti to photograph — including the state’s famous

Saguaro cactus. Just watch out for the teddy bear cholla, a cactus that may look and sound cute but has quite the bite when it attaches on as you brush by.

Other popular hikes include the relatively short and easy Pinnacle Peak near the five-star Four Seasons Resort and the more arduous Camelback Mountain in nearby Paradise Valley.

If you wander off the beaten path just a bit (in Scottsdale), you’ll find a whole other world waiting to be explored.

HORSEBACK RIDING

If a desert hike in the heat seems too onerous, saddle up and let a horse do the work for you. There are a number of guest ranches with guided rides such as Saguaro Lake Ranch Stables, about 30 minutes east in Tonto National Forest. You’ll be given a sure-footed horse based on your riding ability and you’ll take a one-, 1.5- or two-hour ride through the 90-year-old guest ranch which is sandwiched between the imposing Bulldogs Cliffs and Saguaro Lake. Ride on cacti-studded ridges and through dry arroyos (riverbeds) where, if you’re lucky, you may see wild javelinas. Elusive creatures, you’ll likely just see the flattened grass where the piglike mammals bedded down. Also, keep an eye open for eagles overhead and rattlesnak­es under foot.

RIVER KAYAKING

Paddling down the slow-moving Salt River with cacti crowding the shores, Phoenix and its freeways seem a world away. Starting life in the eastern White Mountains, the river flows more than 300 kilometres to southwest of Phoenix. It’s a popular place for boating, floating and fishing. Going on a guided kayak trip removes the hassle of renting a boat and figuring out drop-off and pickup as they do all the work. You can join a group trip or, if you have enough family and friends with you, create your own. By going with a guide, such as REI Co-op Experience­s, you’ll learn more about the river and its unique ecosystem.

If you’re lucky, you might even see wild horses that live within nearby Tonto National Forest. They come to the Salt River to drink and cool off, and the best time to see them is in the mornings during the summer months.

BALLOONING

While hiking gets you up close to nature, see it from a very different perspectiv­e on a hot-air balloon ride. The desert stretches out in every direction, a vast plain of orangey ground intermitte­ntly studded with green. Pilots can fly at altitudes between 120 metres and 900 metres, but you won’t even notice you’re moving as the basket floats along with the wind at 7 or 8 km/h.

There are sunrise and sunset trips but you may have to keep it in your agenda for a few days as all trips are weather dependant. Many companies, such as Hot Air Expedition­s, gather their clients at the Deer Valley Airport and head out north from there. It takes about half an hour for the crew to fill the massive balloons as portable fans blow air that is heated by burners on the basket. Waiting to board while all the action is happening is loud and either exciting or nerve-racking, depending on your tolerance for such adventures. The beautiful colours of the balloons, the fiery flames and the desert landscape make for incredible photograph­s.

If heading south to Scottsdale this year, try adding a little adventure to your holiday and come back with more than just a good tan.

For more informatio­n on Scottsdale, visit www.experience­scottsdale.com.

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 ?? PHOTOS: MICHELE JARVIE ?? Horseback riding at Saguaro Lake Guest Ranch is a great way to see Arizona’s stunning landscapes without having to do the walking yourself.
PHOTOS: MICHELE JARVIE Horseback riding at Saguaro Lake Guest Ranch is a great way to see Arizona’s stunning landscapes without having to do the walking yourself.
 ??  ?? Arizona is not all dry desert — you can kayak on the Salt River near Scottsdale with REI Co-op Experience­s.
Arizona is not all dry desert — you can kayak on the Salt River near Scottsdale with REI Co-op Experience­s.
 ?? PHOTOS: MICHELE JARVIE ?? A Saguaro cactus presents an imposing figure in Mcdowell Sonoran Preserve.
PHOTOS: MICHELE JARVIE A Saguaro cactus presents an imposing figure in Mcdowell Sonoran Preserve.
 ??  ?? The best views of the wild west are from up high in a hot-air balloon.
The best views of the wild west are from up high in a hot-air balloon.

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