Winemakers turn to Zoom tastings amid lockdown strife

At Montes Wines, a tasting typically involves sipping Cabernet Sauvignon in its feng shui-inspired building nestled between verdant, rolling slopes in Chile’s Colchagua Valley.

Now, with much of the world in lockdown, tasters in Brazil, Mexico and Germany are swishing and swirling in front of laptops as the winery joins the global trend of using meeting apps like Zoom to connect with clients.

“They have the same wines that I’m tasting, so we go together and we discuss the flavour and the colour and the way it’s performing,” said co-owner Aurelio Montes.

It’s a scene playing out around the world, from California to Cape Town. Centuries-old wineries and vineyards are reassessing their businesses at every step as the pandemic roils everything from labour and transportation to vital tourism and hospitality industries.

To be sure, at-home drinking is on the rise, boosting retail sales. But overall consumption is expected to take a hit as bars and restaurants — which in Europe account for about 30 per cent of volume — stay closed. The EU has forecast consumption this season to be 8 per cent below the five-year average, with mostly sparkling and high-value wines affected.

In California, the spread of the virus shuttered tasting rooms and restaurants in the heart of wine country just as the spring season was to usher in a wave of tourism and festivals. While many wineries are shifting their business to focus on direct sales to consumers, it’s not enough to offset the losses.

Many wineries are building on direct-to-consumer sales through websites or membership clubs. For Plumpjack in Napa Valley, which relies on restaurants for twothirds of its business, that means Facetime tastings and virtual Q&A sessions.

In South Australia, home to the Barossa Valley and Adelaide Hills wine tourism areas, some wineries had already been hit with wildfires and smoke-taint this vintage, before coronavirus shut tourism and cellar doors. The government has since eased restrictions to allow wineries to sell takeaway products.

Retail, online and mail order sales are showing signs of improvement, said Brian Smedley, chief executive of the South Australian Wine Industry Association.

“We’ve had a significant increase in alcohol sales in this country,” Smedley said. But it’s not going to replace the ability to have consumers coming to the cellar door, “tasting and experiencing the things that wineries have to offer.”

Italy’s Cantina Tramin sells most of its wine to restaurants and bars in its home country, all of which remain closed. The wine cooperative is active on social media and sells its flagship Gewürztraminer and other varietals online.

In terms of exports, the outlook remains murky as shutdowns thwart demand and disrupt logistics. The EU expects wine exports to fall 14 per cent in 2019/2020, while in Australia, first-quarter shipments were down 7 per cent, including a 14 per cent drop to China, according to Wine Australia. .

The impact on prices is also unclear and is likely to differ from country to country, dependent on consumption patterns and the types of wines grown.

At Quinta do Vallado in Portugal’s Douro Valley, about 25 per cent of sales are to tourists visiting the estate. That segment completely dried up as the wine shop and hotel shuttered, said CEO Joao Alvares Ribeiro. Meanwhile, exports to key markets including the U.S., U.K., Brazil and China slumped, pushing down total sales by about 60 per cent in March.

“No one is really sending orders,” he said.