Pizzerias better suited to take pandemic in stride
Neighbourhood pizza joints offer great comfort food when we need it the most
If there’s ever been a moment for the humble pizza pie to shine, it’s been the past few months.
Pizza is the ultimate eat-athome food: it travels well, you can easily eat it in front of the
TV, and most pizza places have already mastered the complicated art of delivery.
Beyond that, it’s comforting, gooey, and likely a little nostalgic — a perfectly certain dish for a time defined by its uncertainty. Unsurprisingly, if any restaurant is likely to make it through the hardships of this pandemic, it’s going to be your local neighbourhood pizza joint.
Paul Hebert is one of the co-owners of Bow Tie Pizza, a friendly little takeout shop with locations in Thorncliffe and Mahogany, and a third location slated to open in Sage Hill in mid-june.
He’s been grateful that, unlike sit-down dining restaurants, he hasn’t had to change his business model to survive. Other than updating sanitation procedures, Bow Tie is running much as it did in February.
“Business has been steady,” Hebert says. “We’ve found that a lot of people have come in because they’re adamant about supporting local businesses and smaller guys like us.”
Hebert says that he’s found a lot of new customers who are used to big-chain pizza takeout that tends to be, shall we say, less flavourful, have really had their eyes opened by the difference that comes with a smaller scale pizza place.
Calgary is home to many diverse pizza styles — Bow
Tie’s specialty sits somewhere between the hefty Greek-style pizza that has been a local favourite for decades and the thinner New York-style pies that have come into vogue as of late. Bow Tie’s crust is crispy and thick but not too thick, the sauce is suitably saucy and the cheese is plentiful but doesn’t overwhelm the rest of the slice.
“When people are spending their hard-earned money on our product, we don’t want to take that for granted,” Hebert says. “When you come in here, you’re not going to get a frozen-style pizza. Our pizza is fresh and we try to instil a real sense of comfort.”
Rob Greco, owner of Carmine’s pizzeria, has found that business has been brisk with his original northwest location, even if his newly opened Oakridge restaurant (which inconveniently launched just weeks before the pandemic shutdown) is still gaining traction.
As with Bow Tie though, the pandemic has brought first-time customers coming to pick up pizza to try something new and support a local business.
“People have been coming in and telling us that they usually order from the bigger chains but decided to support us through this,” Greco says. “We’re going to be a little more expensive, but people have said they like having us in the neighbourhood and want to make sure we’re able to stay.”
While downtown pizza options are also enjoying a resurgence (pop-ups such as Noble Pie,
Pizza Face, Charcut’s Connie and John’s Pizza are becoming some of the most fashionable eats in town), suburban neighbourhoods will always be a hotbed of top-notch pizza options. These gems are worth checking out, both while we’re all still in takeout mode and well after businesses go back to “normal.”
Bow Tie Pizza: Bow Tie’s pies have a classic vibe (with topping combos that include meat lovers, Greek, and four cheese) with a modern feel, thanks to high-quality ingredients and a primo pizza oven. Look for a new location in Sage Hill to open in the coming weeks. (4817b Centre St. N. and 112 Mahogany St. S.E.; bowtiepizza.com).
Carmine’s: With locations in the northwest and southwest, Carmine’s New York(ish)-style pizzas may seem a little costly, but a large can easily feed a family of four. The dough is relatively thin but sturdy enough to hold loads of gourmet toppings with no need for a knife and fork (390 Northmount Dr. N.W. and 3109 Palliser Dr. S.W.; carminespizza. ca)
Azzurri: A little place tucked away in the northeast, Azzurri does some of the city’s best Napoletana (i.e. ultrathin crust) pizza. Open for takeout, pizza lovers can enjoy its hand-stretched dough topped with sauce made from Italian imported tomatoes at home. (2404 Edmonton Trail; azzurripizzeria.ca)
Sammy’s Worlds Greatest Pizza: The name is bold, but this decades-old family-run business has an incredibly loyal following, thanks to its formidable thickcrust pies. Order less than you think you need or plan for leftovers — these pizzas are mighty. (11440 Braeside Dr. S.W. and 14707 Bannister Rd. S.E.; sammysworldsgreatestpizza.com)
POW: There’s thick Greekstyle pizza and then there’s Detroit-style pizza. This cousin to Inglewood’s Without Papers is a purveyor of “Detroit spirited” pizza, a rectangular block of focaccia-like dough covered with brick cheese and topped with a dollop of sauce. (1025 Russet Rd. N.E.; powpizza.ca)
Seniores: A Beddington standby, this thick ’n’ cheesy-style pizzeria is particularly heralded for its fantastic and garlicky donair pizza, topped with sweet sauce and both cheddar and mozzarella cheese. (176 Bedford Dr. N.E.; seniorespizza.ca)